Earlier this year, my beau and I took a trip to New Mexico to travel around the state and visit as many of its sites as possible. We visited two national parks: White Sands, and Carlsbad Caverns, and also Bandelier National Monument. After spending half a day in Bandolier, we decided to visit the nearby city of Los Alamos. We just loved it- so much history in just one quaint small town. And now, with the release of Oppenheimer, which was filmed partially here, it’s even more exciting for me to talk to you about what to do when visiting the secret city of Los Alamos, NM.
About Los Alamos
Los Alamos, located less than an hour away from Santa Fe, was a remote, isolated location in the mountains. This made it the perfect site for the Manhattan project- codenamed Project Y. The government bought the buildings that comprised the Los Alamos Ranch School and surrounding area in November 1942, shutting down the school and moving in scientists, including J Robert Oppenheimer. This was the site of the top-secret atomic weapons laboratory.
Los Alamos- the Secret City
Los Alamos wasn’t a proper town before the Manhattan Project. It was the home of the Los Alamos Ranch School, a college preparatory boarding school for boys. The school, founded in 1917 by Ashley Pond Jr. comprised of 54 buildings: including dorms, living quarters, garages and shed. The US was already involved in World War 2 when Brigadier General Leslie Groves chose the site, because of its preexisting buildings, access to water, and ample surrounding space, already owned by the federal government.
With the nearest town over 16 miles away and not a lot of trees there wasn’t a lot of clearing that needed to be done to create the working secret city of Los Alamos. The biggest problem is that there were more people than there were buildings. And in fact, the site was so secret that there was only one mailbox, which served as the mailing address for the entire town.- P.O. Box 1663. In fact, babies born during that time at Los Alamos have that address listed as birthplace on their birth certificates. By the end of the war there were 5,000 people living at Los Alamos and assigned to this address. Fun fact- Sears Roebuck sent a letter of complaint about the amount of catalogs that were going to that one address.
The Manhattan Project
Residents at Los Alamos include physicists, chemists, explosive experts, military personnel. And they were all working towards the top-secret work of developing the atomic bombs. The average age was 25 and work must not have been too secretive because over 80 babies were born during the two years there. The scientist would work six days a week. During the one day off, they were said to have thrown some pretty good parties to relax.
At 5:30 AM mountain time on July 16, 1945, the worlds first atomic test (codename Trinity) exploded in the Tularosa Basin. Then, on August 6 and 9 of 1945, the bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki were released. This of course prompted the end of World War II. All because of the work done at Los Alamos and the other secret cities.
Visiting Los Alamos
Los Alamos National Historical Park
Our first stop was the Los Alamos Visitor Center so we could get a map. The parking lot across the street from it is where we stashed the car for the rest of the day. Almost everything we wanted to see in Los Alamos was walkable. At the visitor center, the kind lady working pointed out to us that the Los Alamos National Historical Park visitor center was right across the sidewalk. And we got there right in time, because its hours are 10-3 Friday through Monday. Here, you can stamp your passport book, talk to rangers, and read some information about the area. It has information from the first inhabitants but especially focuses on the Manhattan Project. I found the copies of photographs and information to be very interesting. It just piqued my curiosity more about what to see in town.
Speaking of stamps- not only can you get your National Park Service passport stamp, but they also offer a three-part stamp. If you visit the “secret cities” of Los Alamos, Oak Ridge, TN (where uranium was enriched) and Hanford, WA (where plutonium was produced) you get 1/3 of a stamp at each site. When you visit all three of these important cities to the Manhattan project you’ll have the completed stamp.
Los Alamos Historical Walking Tour
At the very least, you can take a stroll around Los Alamos and learn more about about life during the Manhattan project on the Historical Walking Tour. There are signs around town, such as at the post office. While the current building replaced the original with aforementioned P.O. Box address, the new building, built in 1948, helped signal the formation of Los Alamos into a permanent town. Near the post office are statues of Oppenheimer and Groves. It was Groves who appointed Oppenheimer as lead scientist in the Manhattan project.
Bradbury Science Museum
Another great place to go while visiting the secret city of Los Alamos, NM is the Bradbury Science Museum. In 1953, The Los Alamos Scientific Laboratory first opened in order to house historical weapons and research artifacts. It was located in the old icehouse on the bank of the Ashley Pond (part of the former boys school). In 1970 the museum was renamed the Bradbury museum (after the laboratories second director). At this time videotapes, computer programs, an air-launch cruise missile and more were added to the World War 2 era documents and photographs. And around 1993 a new, larger building was opened to contend with the higher attendance.
Today there are over 60 interactive exhibits in the Bradbury Science Museum. Though it’s not a huge museum, it packs a large punch and I found it to be very interesting. Major added bonus- the museum is free to enter! It is open from Tuesday through Saturday 10 to 5 and Sunday 1 to 5. I could’ve spent even longer in the museum, there was so much to read, listen to and watch, plan a few hours here at least.
Bathtub Row
Many of the important buildings in Los Alamos are located off ‘Bathtub Row’. With such an influx of people coming into Los Alamos in a short amount of time, a lot of buildings were put up hastily and not well finished. Houses with amenities like bathtubs were extremely rare, and only for the highest ranking officials and scientists. These nicer homes earned the street the apt nickname Bathtub Row.
Los Alamos History Museum
Near the visitor center at 1050 bathtub Row, Los Alamos History Museum teaches visitors about the town throughout many different stages. Beginning from when it just consisted of a bunch of homesteads, the Los Alamos Ranch boys school, through to its role in the Manhattan project and the Cold War. There are many historic buildings that encompass the museum.
The visit begins at the Los Alamos Ranch School guest cottage. Here you can explore artifacts, see photographs, hear audio and video recordings and more. In this building the exhibits focus especially on the Ranch school era and has artifacts from people who lived here during the Manhattan project. The Los Alamos History Museum is open Monday through Friday 9 to 5 and Saturday 10 to 4. Admission is five dollars.
Fuller Lodge
We took a little tour next door inside the Fuller Lodge. The lodge was first built in 1928 and during the Ranch School days it was the dining hall and staff quarters. In 1942, when the school and area were purchased for the Manhattan project, the lodge was used to provide meals and rooms for visiting scientists. It was also the area for dances or other events. Today the lodge serves as a community center. It is free to enter and explore.
Hans Bethe & Oppenheimer Houses
Further down Bathtub Row is the Hans Bethe house. This whole house is part of the Herald Agnew Cold War Gallery. You can read more scientists profiles and also see a display of a Nobel prize. I also enjoyed seeing the re-created 1950s living room and kitchen.
Finally on Bathtub Row is the Oppenheimer house. Lived in until just recently by a private resident, it was used for filming during the movie. Currently, it is undergoing preservation and renovation. I’d be very interested in visiting the home in the future. I read that Christopher Nolan, the director of the Oppenheimer movie has donated the furniture used in the film to the museum, which is dependent on donations and volunteers.
Los Alamos Breweries
When you’re done exploring the museums and historical sites in the “secret city” of Los Alamos, NM, consider visiting one (or both) of the two breweries. We stopped by Boese Bros Brewpub for lunch. They are open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 to 10 Friday and Saturday from 12 to 10 and Sunday 12 to 6. They had about 12 different beers on tap: lagers, IPAs, porters, sours, and ciders. We got a flight and enjoyed them all. They also have a good selection of sandwiches available, including vegetarian, and gluten-free options.
At the end of the day we stopped by Bathtub Row Brewing co-op. The place was busy and we talked to several people who work as scientists in the still-operating labs nearby. Bathtub Row Brewing is open from Monday through Wednesday 2 to 10 Thursday 2 to 11 Friday and Saturday noon to 11 and Sunday noon to 10. They have about six of their beers on tap as well as a few guest taps and wine.
Los Alamos Main Gate
Finally, on our way out of town we stopped by to see the re-created Los Alamos project main gate. All people had to pass through this gate on their way to work. It was very cool to see this, especially because we had seen pictures of the original main gate in many of the places we visited that day.
We had such a great afternoon visiting Los Alamos, NM- the secret city. It was definitely worth exploring, especially if you are visiting the nearby Santa Fe or Bandolier National Monument. If you have any historical sites that you think I should explore, please let me know in the comments. And be sure to check out my other blog posts about my trip to New Mexico. Stay tuned for more blog posts- it’s been a busy, exciting summer. Catch you soon!
-Catching Katie
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