A Day in Lyon France

After exploring the charm of Annecy, the grandeur of Chamonix, and the quiet beauty of Dijon, we headed off for our next city on our Tour de France- Lyon. We only had one day planned in Lyon, France so we had to maximize our time. And what better way to get acquainted with a city than on a guided walking tour? It turned out to be such a great way to see the city that we ended our first tour just to do a second with the same guide. From Roman ruins to silk workers’ alleyways, secret passages to Renaissance courtyards, Lyon had a lot to offer. Here are some of the fascinating stops along the way.

About Lyon

Tucked between the Rhône and Saône rivers in southeastern France, Lyon is a city that blends elegance, history, and creativity in just the right measure. Often called the gastronomic capital of France, it’s a paradise for food lovers, being home of Paul Bocuse, bustling bouchons (the name of bistros in this part of France- unfortunately for me they are known for meat), and vibrant food markets like Les Halles de Lyon. But Lyon is more than just a place to eat well. Its UNESCO-listed Old Town is full of Renaissance architecture, secret passageways called traboules, and steep cobbled streets that seem untouched by time.

History of Lyon

Known in Roman times as Lugdunum, Lyon was once the 10th largest city in the Roman Empire, and its history is still apparent in several areas of town.

During the Renaissance, King Charles VII helped transform Lyon into a flourishing commercial hub by waiving taxes for tradesmen. This attracted waves of Italian merchants and artisans, whose influence is still visible in the warm colors and Italian-style facades throughout the city.

Neighborhoods of Lyon

Vieux Lyon

Cathédrale Saint-Jean

We began our walking tour of Lyon at the Cathédrale Saint-Jean (dedicated to Saint John the Baptist) located in the heart of the Vieux Lyon district. This impressive Gothic and Romanesque cathedral dates back to the 12th century and took over three centuries to complete.

One of the most fascinating features inside of Cathedral Saint-Jean is its astronomical clock, built in the 14th century. Still functional today, it displays the date, position of the moon, sun, and stars. It even plays a little mechanical show at certain hours. Unfortunately when we visited Lyon it was a Monday, a day many things in France are closed, and this was no exception. 

In the square outside the church- aptly named Place Saint-Jean- is a statue built in the 19th century. In the center is John (Jean in French) the Baptist preaching alongside Jesus.

Temple du Change

The Temple du Change was originally built in the mid-18th century as the Bourse (Stock Exchange) of Lyon. Merchants and bankers met here to conduct business and currency exchange. The neoclassical style building was designed by the renowned architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot who also designed the Panthéon in Paris. After the Revolution, when it was no longer used for commerce, it was eventually given to the Protestant community. In the 19th century they converted it into a place of worship. Today, it sometimes hosts concerts or cultural events.

Traboules

We continued on our walking tour until we got to one of the most fascinating aspects of Vieux Lyon- its traboules.

“Traboules” comes from the Latin “trans ambulare” (pass through) and are hidden, covered passageways that cut through buildings and courtyards. Originally they were made when the city was growing and buildings were becoming very dense as a means to provide residents with quick access to the Saône River. Later they were used by silk workers to transport goods while protected from the elements. They became vital later still as escape routes and hiding places for the French Resistance during World War II. There are over 500 traboules scattered throughout the city. Finding them feels like discovering a secret portal to the past.

Many traboules open into inner courtyards that feel like secret pockets of history. These courtyards often date back to the Renaissance and were part of the original design of wealthy merchant homes. You might see spiral staircases, arched galleries, stone wells, and ornate columns, all still preserved today. Each courtyard is unique- some are simple and quiet, others richly decorated and filled with plants, balconies, and painted shutters.

More about traboules

One of the traboules led us to the elegant Galerie Philibert de l’Orme, designed by the same architect later chosen by Catherine de Medici to build the Tuileries Palace in Paris.

Today, many of the buildings connected by traboules, and the courtyards hidden within, are still private residences. In fact, only 30 of the 500 traboules are open to the public during the day thanks to an agreement between the city and property owners, while others remain closed or require guided access. The people who live there today range from longtime Lyonnais residents to students, artists, and professionals- especially in neighborhoods like Croix-Rousse, which I’ll talk about later. Some buildings have been renovated into upscale apartments, while others retain their historic charm with creaky staircases and exposed beams and are used as low-income housing. Either way, it was one of my favorite things about Lyon, it felt like seeing living history.

Palais de Justice

We passed by the Palace of Justice, an imposing neoclassical building with 24 grand columns. This symbolizes, we were told, the idea that “justice never sleeps.” (24 columns= 24 hours in a day).

Nearby stood a statue that carried a symbolic reminder to “Carry Your Weight”. This was our first glimpse of the many public artworks in Lyon that blend meaning with aesthetics.

Rue du Bœuf

We came to Rue du Boeuf (literally Beef Road), known for its concentration of gastronomic excellence- including several Michelin-starred restaurants. Paul Bocuse, one of France’s most iconic chefs, called Lyon home. Fun fact I didn’t realize until our walking tour- he was the inspiration for the character Gusteau in Ratatouille. And on the subject of food- don’t leave without trying a local sweet: the bright pink brioche aux pralines.

Lyon and Guignol

We next came across the Guignol clock, a whimsical animated timepiece located near the Théâtre des Célestins in Place Louis Pradel. Several times a day, it springs to life with a short performance featuring moving figures of Guignol and his companions, a playful nod to one of Lyon’s most beloved traditions. This clever little show brings to life the city’s puppet theatre heritage in the heart of the bustling Presqu’île.

Even if you’re not French I’m sure you recognize Guignol. This foolish clown character was created around 1808 by Laurent Mourguet, a former silk worker turned street performer. It was originally used to entertain dental patients, but the puppet soon became the star of full-blown shows. These shows reflected the lives and struggles of Lyon’s working class that would poke fun at the powers that be, especially the police. There’s even a museum in Lyon all about this funny character.

Passerole Saint-Vincent

We crossed the Saône River on Lyon’s oldest pedestrian bridge- Passerole Saint-Vincent. This suspension bridge was built in 1827 and is a rare survivor from before 1944 when most bridges were destroyed.

Presqu’île District

Fresque des Lyonnais

We were then in the Presqu’île district, witnessing more examples of Lyon’s love of storytelling. One example is the huge building-sized frescos on Fresque des Lyonnais. This trompe-l’œil mural depicts famous Lyonnais figures like Emperor Claudius. Claudius, was born in Lugdunum (modern-day Lyon) in 10 BC and became Emperor of the Roman Empire in 41 AD. He is especially important to Lyon because he later honored his birthplace by granting elite Gauls, including those from Lyon, the right to serve in the Roman Senate. Other prominent Lyonnais featured on the wall (besides the ones I already mentioned in this blog) include Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (the author of the best book ever- Le Petit Prince), André-Marie Ampère, physicist and mathematician and pioneer in electromagnetism (the ampere is named after him), and the Lumière brothers, pioneers of cinema.

Place Bellefour & Saint Exupéry

As I mentioned before, Lyon was home of many famous people, including one of my favorite authors, and my traveling buddy Lindsey’s too, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who wrote Le Petit Prince. So we had to go see the statue dedicated to him. It is in Place Bellecour, in front of where St Ex was born.

The city also had lots of Le Petit Prince souvenir and fun photo opportunities.

Croix-Rousse district

The walking tour continued to the Croix-Rousse district. This hilly area which awards great views was once home to the canuts, the name of the silk workers. We explored the slopes where 19th-century buildings were designed tall and spacious to accommodate Jacquard looms, a major innovation of the time. At its peak, silk production made up 30% of France’s industry, and this area still carries the feel of a working-class neighborhood, though now it is filled with cafés, murals, and creative shops.

Eglise du Bon Pasteur

Further up, we passed the Église du Bon Pasteur, a church that was originally built for the canuts but never completed. This unused (and now closed) church mysteriously has its front door set far above the street level—almost as if hovering.

The memories and homage to the silk-workers / canut is everywhere in this city. It’s a really sweet thing to see, the appreciation of these workers who helped make this city what it is.

Street Art in Lyon

On our descent, we found ourselves on the Montée de la Grande Côte, one of the oldest streets in Lyon, winding its way back into the heart of the city. Especially in this area, but also also over the city we saw lots of great street art.

We also spotted small, clever street mosaics that fill in broken pavement—part of a whimsical guerrilla art project by an artist known only as “MMM.”

Cour des Voraces

The Cour des Voraces, located in Lyon’s Croix-Rousse district, is one of the city’s most iconic traboules and a powerful symbol of its working-class history. Built in the 19th century, it features a dramatic six-story stone staircase and once served as a passageway for the city’s silk workers, the canuts. They later used it during the Canut revolts-some of the first union uprisings in Europe. 

Fourvière Hill

Lyon’s Funicular

We took the funicular railway from Vieux Lyon up to Fourvière Hill, a short but steep ride that’s both practical and historic. Lyon’s funiculars are among the oldest in the world, with the first line dating back to the 1860s. Today, two lines still operate as part of the city’s public transport system. The ride to the top takes just a few minutes and costs the same as a regular metro ticket- about €2.10 one way. 

Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

At the top, we arrived directly beside the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, one of Lyon’s most iconic landmarks. Built between 1872 and 1884, the basilica combines Byzantine and Romanesque styles. The church was constructed in gratitude to the Virgin Mary (Notre Dame = Our Lady).

The interior of the basilica is stunning! It has richly decorated interiors featuring intricate mosaics, stained glass, and gilded ceilings. I have seen a lot of cathedrals/churches and basilicas in my travels, but this one really impressed me.

After visiting the interior we went to m the esplanade in front, for the panoramic view of Lyon. The view is stunning, stretching across rooftops, rivers, and on a clear day, all the way to Mont Blanc.

 Lyon’s Eiffel Tower

Did you know that Lyon has its own Eiffel-esque Tower? However, it seems many people of Lyon are a bit embarrassed about it lol. It was built between 1892 and 1894 by a group of private entrepreneurs led by architect Eugène Collonge. Though it closely resembles the Eiffel Tower, it was not built for a World’s Fair, but rather as a symbol of science and modernity. At 85 meters tall (over 100 meters with its antenna), it once featured an elevator, viewing platform, and restaurant, but  it closed to the public in 1953. it still stands proudly atop Fourvière Hill as a radio and television tower.

Roman Sites in Lyon

Lyon has quite a bit of Roman history. One such place is the Roman amphitheater where according to legend, Saint Blandine, a young Christian martyr and now patron saint of Lyon, was meant to be killed by lions. Luckily for her they refused to harm her. The theater was visited by Pope John Paul and is still used for modern performances today.

Lyon Museums

Lyon boasts a diverse range of museums that celebrate its rich history, art, and culture. While I didnt get to visit these, here is a summary of what you could see if you have some time in Lyon:

• Musée des Beaux-Arts is home to an impressive fine arts collection; 
• Gallo-Roman Museum of Lyon-Fourvière, showcases artifacts from the city’s ancient past; 
• the Musée des Confluences is a science and anthropology museum housed in a futuristic glass-and-steel structure
• the Musée d’Art Contemporain is dedicated to contemporary art. 
• The Musée Gadagne in Vieux Lyon offers insights into the city’s history and puppetry traditions.

Lumière Brothers 

Did you know movies exist thanks to the French? The Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis, are among Lyon’s most famous historical figures and pioneers of cinema. Born in the city in the 1860s, they invented the cinématographe in 1895. This revolutionary device could record, develop, and project motion pictures. Their first public screening is often considered the birth of modern cinema, making Lyon a key city in film history.

Institut Lumière

While in Lyon, we made sure to visit the Institut Lumière, located in the Monplaisir neighborhood of Lyon. This museum is in the former family home of the Lumière brothers. It’s open to visitors Tuesday through Sunday, typically from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is €9,50 for adults, with discounts for students and teachers. The Institut Lumière is located in the former Lumière family villa, which is right next to the site of the original Lumière factory. This is where the brothers developed and built their early film equipment. In fact, in “La Sortie de l’Usine Lumière à Lyon” (Workers Leaving the Lumière Factory), filmed in 1895, shows employees exiting the factory and is one of the very first motion pictures ever made.

At the museum, visitors can explore fascinating exhibits including the original cinématographe prototype, early film reels, vintage cameras, and personal artifacts from the Lumière family. Interactive displays explain the science of early filmmaking, while screenings of the brothers’ first films offer a glimpse into cinema’s beginnings. The beautiful villa itself, with period furnishings and historical rooms, adds to the immersive experience. I think the Institut Lumière a must-visit for anyone, especially those  interested in cinema and film history. 

The museum was just incredible. Seeing these old cameras, but also early prototypes for moving pictures.

There were also so many viewing areas for watching the Lumière Brothers early movies. I could’ve stayed for hours just taking it all in.

Final Thoughts

Lyon truly surprised us with its rich layers of history, culture, and creativity all woven together in a vibrant cityscape. In just one day, we experienced everything from ancient Roman ruins to secret traboules, from the legacy of silk workers to iconic landmarks like the Basilica and the Lumière brothers’ museum. It’s a city that beautifully blends the old and the new, making it a must-visit stop on any trip through France. Stayed tuned for more blog posts about traveling through France. À bientôt!

-Catching Katie