Summer of 2025 my travels took me to France where I, along with some good friends, took an incredible road trip around the country (which I call my personal Tour de France). After spending a few wonderful days exploring Marseille and Aix-en-Provence (as I shared in my last post), we decided to take a scenic road trip west toward Toulouse. Our plan was to break up the drive and explore more of southern France’s art, history, and culture by making stops in two great cities. This post focuses on a day exploring Arles and Carcassonne.
We chose Arles as our first stop because we wanted to follow Van Gogh’s footstep. We walked through the city to see the exact places that inspired his paintings and passed Roman ruins along the way. Later in the day, we visited Carcassonne, the famous medieval walled city. There we wandered cobblestone lanes, admired the walls and towers, and enjoyed a dinner of local specialties before continuing on to Toulouse.
Heading to Arles
The morning began with us walking around Aix-en-Provence. We decided to buy some goodies from some local shops and the farmers market to have a picnic lunch in Arles. So with the car packed and filled with excitement for the next chapter of our journey we hit the road. Arles was the ideal next chapter for our summer adventure. There, we would be able to follow the footsteps of another French artist (like we had already done in several cities)- Van Gogh. From Aix, it was about 90 km (56 miles) and just over an hour’s drive to Arles.
About Arles
Arles is a small but historically rich city in southern France. It is located along the Rhône River in the Provence region, not far from the Camargue wetlands and the Mediterranean coast. Founded by the Romans in 46 BC, Arles quickly became an important Roman colony. In fact, many of its ancient monuments are still visible today. In the late 19th century, the city gained international recognition as the place where Vincent Van Gogh lived and painted. He produced hundreds of works inspired by its light, streets, and riverbanks. Today, Arles has a population of about 50,000 people and balances its Roman past and artistic legacy with a lively cultural scene. It is known for photography festivals, museums, and contemporary art spaces.
Walking paths in Arles
We parked just outside the city walls. Located at the historic gateway to town was a map of the city, where we learned that the city has several walking routes. The Van Gogh route highlights the exact places where he lived and painted. Other paths focus on Arles’ Roman and medieval history while another is for contemporary cultural and museum sites. As we walked, we started noticing bronze plaques embedded in the sidewalks, guiding visitors along different themed paths. It reminded me of the walking paths we’d already followed in Dijon, which highlighted the city’s history, and another in Aix-en-Provence, where we traced Cézanne’s footsteps through town. There’s something special about experiencing a city this way.
Roman history in Arles
We began wandered the streets, coming shortly to the Arles Arena, a remarkable amphitheater that still hosts events today. The Arena, one of the city’s most impressive Roman landmarks, was built around 90 AD as a gladiatorial amphitheater. It could hold up to 20,000 spectators and is still used today for concerts, bullfights, and events. Nearby, the Roman Theater once hosted plays and performances. It remains partially preserved, making it easy for visitors to imagine the crowds and performances of centuries ago. A concert was being set up there when we walked by. Beneath the Forum is the Cryptoporticus, a vaulted underground corridor. It was built to support the buildings above and served as storage. It really is incredible to think of the advanced engineering of the Romans in Arles.
Hôtel-Dieu / Espace Van Gogh
Vincent Van Gogh stayed in Arles from 1888 to 1889, producing over 300 paintings and drawings! Many were inspired by or even depicted the city’s streets, river, and distinctive light. The day of our visit, we walked to the former Hôtel-Dieu hospital at Place Félix Rey, where Van Gogh was treated in 1888. It is no longer a hospital today, the historic building has been restored and repurposed. It now houses public and cultural spaces, including offices, exhibition areas, and parts of the Espace Van Gogh complex. The courtyard is open to visitors and that is where we decided to enjoy our picnic. There was a free concert going on that day, so it was packed!
We enjoyed the food we had bought at the market in Aix, including some very melted chocolate. Then we wandered around the courtyard. The courtyard is a calm, sunlit space filled with flowers and greenery. We found the plaque pointing out that this space inspired Van Gogh’s painting Garden of the Hospital in Arles. It is easy to imagine why it caught his attention, even during a difficult moment in his life.
Walking in Van Gogh’s footsteps
All around Arles, there are small plaques and markers set into the streets and along the river that show the exact vantage point where Van Gogh set up his easel. Each plaque includes a reproduction of the painting, along with the title and year. You can stand in the same spot and compare what you’re seeing today with what he painted in 1888. Some are subtle and easy to miss, which makes spotting them feel a bit like a scavenger hunt as you walk through the city. After lunch, we set off hunting down the plaques. From Espace Van Gogh we wandered through the streets toward the Café Terrace at Night. There, we were able to stand in the same square that inspired one of his most recognizable paintings.
Café Terrace at Night was painted by Van Gogh in 1888. The colorful café in the town square remains a vibrant spot, showing exactly what inspired Van Gogh to paint one of his most celebrated night scenes.
As we walked through the streets it was impossible not to notice how charming Arles is. Narrow streets opened into small squares. Shutters were thrown open above cafés and shops. It felt less like rushing between landmarks and more like drifting through a place that’s meant to be explored on foot. It is the kind of setting that makes you understand why Van Gogh was so drawn to this area and inspired to paint.
The Rhône River & the Yellow House
We reached the Rhône River, where Van Gogh painted Starry Night Over the Rhône in 1888. Van Gogh captured the shimmering reflections of gas lamps on the water at night. Walking along the river today, it’s easy to see the same view that inspired him.
The walk ended at the small square where the Yellow House once stood, the place Van Gogh lived while he was in Arles. The building itself was destroyed during World War II, so today, there’s nothing obvious marking it as a former home of one of the world’s most famous artists. Still, it was awesome standing in the square, knowing this was where Van Gogh lived, worked, and dreamed of creating an artists’ community.
Seeing these plaques made the experience feel incredibly personal. Instead of just visiting famous sites, you’re literally standing where Van Gogh stood, looking at the same angle of the street, café, or riverbank. It turned the walk through Arles into more than sightseeing, it felt like stepping into his process.
If You Have More Time in Arles
While we focused on Van Gogh, Arles has plenty more to offer for visitors who want to explore further:
- Explore Roman History – Arles has the Arles Arena (Les Arènes d’Arles) where you can attend a live event if possible. It is also possible to tour the Roman Theater and Cryptoporticus.
- Museums and Contemporary Art – In Arles there is the Musée Réattu, a fine arts museum. Luma Arles is a contemporary art and architecture hub with exhibitions and the Luma Tower. Finally, the Fondation Van Gogh Arles highlights Van Gogh’s legacy and ongoing cultural programs.
- Streets, Canals, and Hidden Gems – Walk or bike along the Canal du Rhône à Sète, enjoying bridges, locks, and waterside cafés. Or wander the streets to discover murals, sculptures, and charming medieval corners.
- Nearby Day Trips – Visit Les Baux-de-Provence, a hilltop village with castle ruins and sweeping views. Camargue has flamingos, wild horses, and pink salt flats and Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a small coastal town.
Carcassonne: the Walled City
After leaving Arles, we embarked on the next leg of the journey- about 118 miles (190 km) and roughly 2 hours by car- to the medieval city of Carcassonne. Carcassonne is a fortified city in southern France’s Occitanie region, located along the Aude River between Toulouse and the Mediterranean coast. Today, it has a population of around 47,000 people, but its history stretches back more than 2,500 years. Originally a Roman settlement, it later became a powerful medieval stronghold. It is best known for its double-walled citadel, complete with towers, ramparts, and drawbridges. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Today, Carcassonne is famous for its well-preserved medieval architecture, lively cultural events, and regional cuisine. It’s a historical landmark and a popular destination for travelers exploring southern France. Did you know the popular board game Carcassonne was inspired by this very city? In the game, players build medieval landscapes with cities, roads, and castles. And walking through the cobblestone streets and towering walls, you can see exactly why this fortified city has captured imaginations.
Exploring Carcassone
We parked just outside the old town and saw our first sign for ACTUAL Tour de France that we were going to be watching in Toulouse. We crossed the Pont Vieux bridge, which dates back to the 14th century and spans the Aude River. The Pont Vieux (which literally means old bridge, that’s a free French lesson for you 😉) connects the lower town (Bastide Saint-Louis) with the medieval citadel. Walking across it gives you that classic first view of Carcassonne’s towers and walls rising above the river.
We walked into the Cité de Carcassonne, the fortified upper city that has dominated the landscape since the Gallo-Roman period. Most of the walls you see today were restored in the 19th century by architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc.
Inside the walls
Even though the guided tours and ramparts were closed during our visit, walking through the city streets was an incredible experience. The cobblestone lanes wind past towers, historic houses, and shops. It truly gives a sense of what life might have been like centuries ago. Highlights of a self-guided walk include:
- The Double Walls. The city is famous for its two concentric layers of fortification, complete with turrets and arrow slits. You can walk along the outer areas to see the impressive defensive structures.
- Château Comtal (the Count’s Castle) – Though entry to the castle was closed for us, it is visible from the streets and is a centerpiece of the citadel. It dates back to the 12th century with ongoing modifications over the centuries. The castle is typically open from 10-6:30 daily, with shorter hours in the winter months. Tickets generally range from €9–13 for adults, with free entry for children and EU residents under 26. A full visit usually takes about 1–2 hours. Take caution as the walkways include uneven stone steps, but they’re one of the best ways to experience the scale and history of the walled city.
- Medieval Streets and Shops – The area is packed with timber-framed houses, artisan shops, cafés, and souvenir stores, many built in the Gothic and Renaissance style. It makes shopping even more fun!
- Views from the Walls – While the ramparts themselves were closed when we visited, we were still able to glimpse parts of the walls and towers. They offered beautiful views of the Aude River and the surrounding countryside.
Basilique Saints Nazarius et Celsius
The most important church inside the medieval citadel of Carcassonne is the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus. It was originally built in the 11th century in the Romanesque style, and later expanded in the 13th and 14th centuries with Gothic elements. One of its standout features is its stained glass, considered some of the oldest and most beautiful in southern France. We got to the church just minutes before it closed, so we had just a few moments to see it, but I’m glad we did.
One of the funniest surprises during our visit was the amount of tourists we saw in black leather and heavy metal rock T-shirts roaming the medieval streets. We realized there was a Judas Priest concert in Carcassonne that evening! It made for a hilarious contrast to the historic surroundings.
Dining at Carcassonne
While exploring, we wandered through Place Marcou, the bustling heart of the citadel. The outdoor dining and endless menu options made it one of the busiest spots we saw. The energy was high, with clinking glasses, conversations spilling into the street, and servers weaving between tables. Looking at the menus that are posted outside of the restaurant, most of them offered similar dishes typical of the Occitanie region. Menus featured things like duck confit, foie gras, charcuterie plates, and local cheeses. The square has a very classic southwest France feel.
Eventually, we slipped off the main drag and found a smaller, cozier restaurant nearby, trading the buzz of the square for a quieter meal and a chance to slow down. It was charming restaurant and a few of my enjoyed cassoulet. This slow-cooked bean and meat stew is the quintessential dish of the region! Being vegetarian, I opted for a delicious salad. It was the perfect way to refuel after exploring the streets and imagining centuries of history.
After dinner, we wandered back outside, walking along the stone walls as the light softened. The entire citadel took on that golden, end-of-day glow. As the sun began to set, the city’s towers glowed in golden light, creating a magical atmosphere.
Even without accessing the ramparts, just walking the streets, soaking in the architecture made our visit unforgettable.
Carcassonne’s combination of fortified history, narrow winding streets, and panoramic views makes it a must-see stop for anyone traveling through southern France. With a little extra time, you could easily a day or more exploring the citadel and nearby attractions.
Continuing to Toulouse
After our visit, it was about 59 miles (95 km) and roughly 1 hour 15 minutes by car to Toulouse, our final destination for the day. Breaking up the drive for the chance of exploring Arles and Carcassonne turned the day into a memorable adventure, full of art, history, and French charm. The next day of our tour de France trip was going to be us seeing the actual Tour de France. Stayed tuned for the next installment. Until then, thanks for checking out Catching Katie!
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