Driving the North Coast 500

One of my favorite things during my time in Scotland was visiting the northern section of Scotland, and that meant driving the North Coast 500- Scotland’s version of Route 66. This loop, which is actually 516 miles long, goes across 6 regions of Scotland. While we didn’t complete the entire loop, instead opting to visit the Isle of Skye, we drove a lot of it. Continue reading to learn about driving the North Coast 500.

Dunrobin Castle

After visiting Inverness and the area around it (click here to read the blog post about Inverness), we hit the road again- driving the North Coast 500. Our first stop was Dunrobin Castle. And let me tell you, this is The. Prettiest. Castle. Ever.  

Dunrobin is the home of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, which was created around 1235. The castle, which is the largest in the northern Highlands with 189 rooms, had additions added throughout the years. The first section just included a fortified, square keep. 200 years later a staircase and high house was added, and in 1785 another extension was added. The house was remodeled in 1845 to be more of a house and not a fort. There was a fire in 1915 and the interior today looks much as it did then when you visit today. I was very impressed with how much of the castle visitors can tour. From the picture below, you can see the different stages of the house. From the left- the keep from the late 13th century, the part from 1616, and the area from 1785.

Touring Dunrobin Castle

Tour starts by going up the grand staircase, then it felt like the map from Clue. There was a billiard room, dining room, music room, drawing room, library, and ladies sitting room.  

Then, visitors go up the spiral staircase to the Duchess’s bedroom, which was redone in 1921.  The bed in this room was the one Queen Victoria had slept in when she visited, though at that time she slept in what is now the library. Here we met James, a docent who first worked at Dunrobin Castle in 1963 as his first job and now is retired and has been working there again for ten years.  He gave us insider info, like showing us inside the wardrobe in the Duchess’s dressing room, which is usually closed and just looks like a mirror.

He also told us about the Jacobite prisoner who was arrested in the toy room. Additionally, we saw the seamstress’s room, which is supposedly haunted {from when the Earl of Sutherland in the 15th century captured a young clan girl, locking her up. She tried to escape using a bedsheet, and he was so mad he cut the sheet as she was climbing down- falling to her death}. James- the docent- also insisted we get a picky with Vicky (my favorite of the monarchs).

We went back downstairs, seeing the Gentleman’s study and the butlers’ room with old fashioned vacuum cleaners in the keep.  I loved the interior of Dunrobin so much. It was wonderful getting to explore so many rooms, which were fabulously decorated.

The Gardens of Dunrobin

From outside, the view of the castle and gardens kept changing.

The gardens were laid out in 1850 by architect Sir Charles Barry. Inspiration came from the Palace of Versailles, which you can see perhaps from the circular garden with fountain. There is also a labyrinth garden, a croquet lawn, and of course a vast array of trees and flowers. The gardens stretch all the way to the water, with an ornate gate enclosing it.

A ticket to Dunrobin includes touring the castle, garden, and also the falconry. There are daily shows featuring falcons at 11:30 and 2:30. I was not sad to miss it, having a huge fear of birds, and I didn’t even want to get too close for a pic, but I did snap this one.

My favorite part of the garden (if I had to choose just one) were the flowers along the wall just below and downhill of the castle. Here are some garden inspiration pictures for you.

Drive up the coast to Wick

After visiting Dunrobin Castle (one of my favorite sites in Scotland) we continued driving the North Coast 500 towards Wick, where we were staying the evening. We saw blue skies, the most green pastures, sheep grazing, yellow wildflowers, cliffs…it’s breathtaking.

We stayed the evening in a lovely B&B near the town of Keiss. After dinner we walked along the coast towards the castle ruins we saw from the drive. During the summer it doesn’t get dark in Scotland until very late, perfect for an evening walk. Especially with views like this- an evening game of football, a boat harbor, ice houses built into the ground, cliffs and castle ruins

Castle of Mey

We were very excited to visit the Catle of Mey- the house the Queen Mother bought in 1952, shortly after her husband died.  She was visiting friends in the area, saw this castle (located in the very north of Scotland in Caithness- near John o’Groats) that was practically in ruins, and decided to buy it and fix it up.  We pre-booked timed tickets online, which were for an exact time, and because we arrived early, we sat and had some coffee and tea before our time began. 

There are no photos allowed inside the castle, which was disappointing. However, it is full of mementos, furniture and photos of the royal family. All of these are things the Queen mother actually brought to this house. She loved coming to Castle of Mey. Every year the royal family did a cruise around the UK on the Brittania and would get off at Mey and stay at the castle.  Even at the age of 102, the queen mother was still going up the stairs. Prince Charles stays there for 2 weeks every July/August around his grandmothers birthday.

Inside Castle of Mey

Some highlights of the interior include the entryway, including photos of the Queen Mothers dogs and the rain boots she used to take them outside.  Each room, including the entryway, had a docent that gave you information and anecdotes about the Queen Mothers time at Mey. In the parlor visitors see her playing cards, her tv with her favorite movies, a piano, and a painting made for her by Prince Charles. Next, the sitting room where the queen mother received guests. Knick knacks line the fireplace and are scattered around the room. After was the Dining room, where the Queen Mother entertained neighbors and friends, with a tapestry the Queen Mother had made for her husband adorning the wall. He died before it it was finished and its been hanging on the wall ever since.

The gardens of Mey

Outside the castle is a beautiful walled garden with lots of lovely flowers flowers, a green house, and a lookout point.

Farr Bay

After visiting the castle of Mey we continued driving the North Coast 500 until we came to Farr Bay and beach. We didn’t have to walk far from the road before being rewarded with amazing views. It’s amazing how blue the water is up there!

Castle of Tongue & Causeway

We wanted lots of stops along the drive to break it ip, so the Castle Varrich in Tongue was our next stop. We decided it was too far to walk, but we did stop and take in the causeway during a low tide with mountains on either side.

Smoo Cave

As we were driving southwest, we started seeing more mountains. And it wasn’t long until we arrived to Smoo Cave.

The entrance to Smoo cave involved descending some stairs which start near the car park. It is a fairly steep descent, so take care. But its worth!

The cave is very impressive, with an entrance 50 feet high, 130 feet wide and 200 feet long. It is easy to access the cave, with a covered wooden pathway and bridge taking visitors to the interior waterfall!

When inside the cave, we found out they do short tours (30 min) for 10 pounds each. we had to do it! For the tour, visitors get into a raft (ducking often under the walls) and get close to the waterfall.  At the second chamber, we got out of the raft and walked on planks into the third chamber where he showed us the entry into what they believe was the fourth chamber where Neolithic people lived.  It is now filled with water, but they are trying to dig to it.  

They can’t use hydraulic tools due to threat of collapse, so they have to use pick axes.  They do tours April-October and use the money to fund the digging project through the winter.  They’ve been working on it for 13 winters and have gotten 62 meters in.

It is very worth it to walk up the steps on the other side of the cave. You can walk all the way to the coast for – you guessed it- amazing views! I

John Lennon Memorial garden

John Lennon spent time in Durness during his childhood visiting cousins.  They believe that the town was his inspiration for the song ’In My Life’.  They also believe, according to the sign- that he is the most famous Beatle. 😀

Durness Beach

There isn’t much to say I need to say about Durness Beach.

Amazing!

Ullapool

We arrived in Ullapool and the tavern/hotel we stayed at. It’s a lovely city and a great place to stay and explore. I loved the view of the water.

Driving the North Shore 500

Such a beautiful scenic drive with mountains, beaches, super blue water, lochs, waterfalls, rainbows, cows, sheep, and reindeer in the road.  We even saw a Highland cow!  It was often a one lane road with passing areas – very curvy – and lots of elevation change.  We kept stopping to jump out and take pictures of the beautiful scenery, but pictures just didn’t do it justice.

Driving the North Shore 500 was one of the best drives I’ve ever taken. And you know I love a road trip. It’s up there with my drives around Norway, which you can read about here. Check out my next installment about my Scotland trip- the Isle of Skye. Thanks for reading!

-Catching Katie