Driving the Northern Ireland Coastal Causeway

After spending two weeks in Scotland, and three days in Belfast, I was off on my next road trip- driving the Coastal Causeway of Northern Ireland. I had no itinerary, just my rental car and the advice from every Northern Irish person I met. Many told me to stay clear of the freeway and keep to the 313km/195-mile Antrim Coast Road. I spent three days exploring the Coastal Causeway, which stretches from Belfast to Derry. Read below to find out about some of the highlights of my trip.

Driving the Northern Ireland Coastal Causeway- my itinerary

In this blog I talk about the following places (listed and numbered according to their location on the map):

Carrickfergus Castle

After departing Belfast and once on the Coastal Causeway, one of the first major things to see, located just off the shore of Belfast Lough, is the castle of Carrickfergus. It is one of the best preserved medieval castles in one of the oldest towns, also named Carrickfergus, in Northern Ireland.

History of Carrickfergus

Carrickfergus is the only castle in Northern Ireland that has been in continuous use since its building in the late 12th century. The castle exchanged hands several times before it was taken by King John in 1210. It has been attacked multiple times, including by the French and the Scots. It was a prison during the Napoleonic wars, and an armory and garrison during WWI. In 1928 it became a historical site, and you can visit it today. 

The castle is protected from the sea by a curtain wall built during the castles origins. Some height was added shortly later because King John’s soldiers could scale it at low tide. 

Visiting Carrickfergus Castle

Tickets are £6 for adults, £4,50 for seniors & students, and £4 for children 5-16. The castle is open to visitors Easter to September from 10-6, and 10-4 October to Easter.

Things to see: murder hole, a chapel, and walk atop the walls. The four-story keep of the castle has rooms to see on every level. Rooms include a public room, dining area, and a storage cellar. Visitors descend the keep via the spiral staircase. 

Andrew Jackson Centre & US Rangers museum

I talked about relying on the help of strangers while I was driving the Northern Ireland Coastal Causeway. And in fact, the employee at the Carrickfergus Castle gave me LOADS of suggestions- including one just down the street. So my second stop on the Northern Ireland Coastal Causeway was the Andrew Jackson Centre and US Rangers Museum.

Andrew Jackson, the seventh President of the United States, had parents that immigrated from Carrickfergus to the US in 1765- two years before his birth. The house where they lived was destroyed but the home of their former neighbors, the Donaldson’s, is where the center is located. The Donaldson’s moved to this area from Scotland with 11 other families (including the Jackson’s) to work as farmers. They lived in this home from 1750 until 1970.

The museum, which is free to visit, gives lots of information on the life of the Jacksons and it’s very interesting to see a cottage from this time. The cottage includes an open fireplace and various household items. You can also learn all about the Scottish-Irish migration. When I visited I was the only person in the museum and the man who was working gave me my own private tour, providing me with lots of information.

US Rangers Museum

Located behind the cottage is the US Rangers Museum. By May, 1942 there were 37,000 American forces in Northern Ireland. They were brought to Northern Ireland because they were out of range of bombers. They trained in Carrickfergus to move quicker and fight harder than any battalion before, and became the US Rangers. The first-ever American ranger unit to be formed on foreign soil was assembled June 19, 1942. 2,500 men volunteered to train to be rangers, but only 500 made the cut.

The museum is small, but had lots of information, and is truly a hidden gem. I learned so much about the Rangers and enjoyed the memorabilia. I was especially touched to read the messages by other visitors, several of whom are former Rangers who consider this museum a sort of mecca.

Ballygally Castle

My second castle while driving the Northern Ireland Coastal Causeway was Ballygally Castle, a stunning 17th Century castle that is now a hotel.

Ballygally is located right across from the beach, so makes it a great place to stop and take a stroll. If the supernatural are more your thing, you may be interested in the ghost room that is open for visitors.

The ghost of Ballygally

The castle was built in 1625 Lord James Shaw. The legend is that he wanted a son so bad, that when his wife, Lady Isabella, gave birth to a daughter he grabbed the baby and locked her in a room at the top of the castle. Lady Isabella went searching for her child and reportedly fell from a tower window (though some say she was thrown from the window by her husband). Now she roams the hallways, and guests have reported strange experiences or sensations in their rooms. I visited the room and the window where she fell, and it was eerie- I think it could be true!

Glenarm Castle

Further along the Coastal Causeway, I made a quick stop at Glenarm Castle. This castle is home to the McDonnell family, the Earls of Antrim. The family came to the North Antrim coast in the 16th century and today the castle grounds are open to visitors.

History of Glenarm

The first house was built in 1636, but was destroyed 6 years later in a Civil War. It was then empty until 1750 when the castle was remodeled. The castle has four acres of walled gardens, built in the 1820s, and a large 5-bay greenhouse where they produce their fruits and veg all year round. The castle grounds opened to the public in 2005. Visitors can also see the stable yard which originally held carriage horses and riding mounts, and then cars starting in the 1920s.

Visiting Glenarm

Glenarm Castle is open every day from 9am – 5pm. Visitors can walk through the garden, enjoy an afternoon tea in the cafe, do a little shopping or perhaps be lucky enough to tour the castle when the family is not at home. Visiting the garden costs £10 for adults, and five for children. I really enjoyed the gardens, full of beautiful flowers, plants and fountains.

After leaving the walled garden there is a woodland walk. It is definitely kid friendly- I saw all kinds of whimsical things during my walk, including a drum set made from a fallen tree and a story book trail.

Glenariff Forest

Located in the county of Antrim, Glenariff Forest was recommended to me for some great hiking. Glenarrif is one of 9 Antrim Glens in Northern Ireland and is known as the queen of the Glens. The park covers over 1,000 hectares with forest, lakes, outdoor recreation spaces, conservation areas and the reason why I was there- waterfalls!

Waterfalls Trail

I came to see waterfalls, so hiked the aptly named Waterfalls Trail, which is 3km long. Along with several other hikes, the waterfall trail begins near the parking lot. The trails are pretty clearly marked. The Glenariff Waterfalls Trail winds through Glenariff Nature Reserve and was absolutely stunning.  I saw 5 waterfalls, and the hike winded around a stream, with a few bridges and beautiful trees and plants.

Access to the trail is only available on foot, and be prepared for a steep climb, with some steps. I also did the 0.6 km rainbow train, a small detour that includes crossing a river and bridge to see another waterfall. I thought because it’s a relatively short trail that I would do more hiking after the Waterfalls Trail, but I was exhausted because it is so steep. 

The trail is also accessible from a nearby restaurant, and let me tell you, I loved walking out of the woods and seeing a sign advertising beers. You may know from my previous blog posts that I love finding a brewery after a hike, and I know my friends Erin and Tricia would’ve really appreciated it too, had they been with me. However, I was distracted by the sound of running water so I didn’t stop. Sure enough, located nearby was yet another waterfall.

Glenariff was an amazing stop during my drive of the Coastal Causeway. Make sure to include it if you visit Northern Ireland!

Cushendon caves

I love a good cave! I have visited lots, including Smoo Cave in the North of Scotland, and Wymyss Caves on the east coast of Scotland during my trip to the UK. So I was excited to see Cushendon Caves, which have been more popular after being used in the series Game of Thrones. The caves are over 400 millions years old, and are located near the town of Cushendon. I found parking in the town, walked to the goat statue, and then followed the coast to the cave.

You can walk all the way through the caves (in which I found a cushy throne- clearly an ode to the television show) to the water. In fact, there are several openings in the caves, which were used for different scenes in Game of Thrones. Do you recognize it? Regardless, it was a really neat little stop while driving the Coastal Causeway of Northern Ireland.

Game of Thrones doors

Speaking of Game of Thrones- did you know there is a Game of Thrones door pass book? Me neither! Scattered around Northern Ireland are wooden doors carved with images inspired from the series Game of Thrones. So, how did these doors come about? Well, after a storm where several trees on the Dark Hedges fell in 2016, two Beech trees were salvaged and transformed into 10 ornately carved doors. The images on the doors depict moments of season 6 of Game of Thrones.

The doors were individually revealed every week of the season. The “Doors of Thrones” are in pubs, restaurants and hotels across Northern Ireland, and visitors can get their pass books stamped at each one. There is no prize except for the gratification you get from completing it. The first door I saw was as in Belfast at the Dark Horse bar, and the second was at Ballygally Castle.

Mary McBrides— another GoT door

Then, while visiting Cushendon Caves I went into Mary McBrides, a charming little restaurant in the small town of Cushendon. I had a delicious fish and chips meal, with a Guinness of course. And they had the 8th Game of Thrones door.

After my dinner at Mary McBrides, I called it a night. It was as full first day of driving the Coastal Causeway

Dark Hedges

On the second day of driving the Coastal Causeway of Northern Ireland I got to visit one of the things I was most pumped to see- the Dark Hedges. While it is also famous for being in the series Game of Thrones, I had been enthralled with this road lined with beech trees ever since I started planning my trip to Northern Ireland.

The Stuart family planted this beautiful avenue of beech trees in the 19th century . It was intended to impress visitors as they approached the entrance to their mansion, Gracehill House. Two centuries later, the tree-lined road has become one of the most photographed natural phenomena in Northern Ireland.

Accidental pro tip: my GPS did not lead me to the parking lot which is located near the house. Instead I was at the end of the road which you were advised not to drive down. I parked off to the side and was able to avoid the crowds who were walking towards me. In fact I waited them out and then virtually had the road to myself. Also it helps to arrive early.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Another very popular stop on the Coast Causeway is the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Visitors should book online in advance, which is £13 and includes parking. I booked after my stop at Dark Hedges just before I arrived and was able to get a ticket. I pulled into the carpark, showed my ticket, and then from the car park to the gate of the bridge I walked 1km/ 0.6 miles. It was a beautiful walk along the coast, with beautiful views. I still couldn’t get over those coastal cliffs with the aqua waters. The path includes mostly flat walking, one steep hill, and takes about 20 minutes.

And then, suspended across a 30-metre deep and 20-metre-wide chasm, the infamous Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge came into few. It was first erected in 1755 to connect salmon fishermen to the rocky island of Carrick-a-Rede.

Once you arrive near the rope bridge, you have to show your ticket again, and perhaps wait a bit. The rope bridge is one-way, and they let people cross from one direction before allowing the other direction to make their way across the bridge. Be warned- the rope bridge does sway as you cross (as you can see in the video below).

Once you cross to the other side, you can immediately get into line to cross back. I, however, wandered further onto the island. You can see the fishing hut, but keep going, and you will find a quiet area, facing the coast. Here, I watched the clouds roll in and out, changing the colors of the water, and had quite a relaxing, meditative, prayerful few moments- some I will never forget.

Ballintoy Harbour

When you’re driving the Coastal Causeway in Northern Ireland and reach the town of Ballintoy Harbour, turn right onto Harbour Road, and take the narrow, winding road towards the coast. When you arrive at the car park, you will be able to enjoy not only the harbour, but sea stacks, rocky islands, sandy pools, and a cave.

Ballintoy Harbour was used in several episodes of Game of Thrones. Do you recognize any of the scenes? (The pics below may help you).

If, like me, hiking is your thing, there is a path past the harbour along the sea. You will come to some pretty incredible rock formations. I enjoyed scrambling over the rocks, watching the waves crash over them. Closer to the harbour there was a cave for exploring.

Giant’s Causeway

Next up while driving the Coastal Causeway is maybe the most iconic place in Northern Ireland- Giant’s Causeway. Giant’s Causeway is an area with over 40,000 interlocking basalt columns.

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 Giant’s Causeway is thusly named because the stones resemble large stepping stones that folklore claimed were made by Giants. Some of the stone columns are low, leading out to the sea, and others stretch up, forming cliffsides.

Getting to Giant’s Causeway

I was very excited to see visit Giant’s Causeway, but be warned- parking was a mess. Parking at the visitor center is £13, but that price gets you into the center for info and an audio guide. I don’t think any of those things are necessary. But, if you do want to go that route I would recommend buying your ticket in advance from their website. If you use their parking lot, however, it locks at 530pm, so you have to make sure to leave by then. I opted for parking at Causeway Hotel (which shares the same parking lot entrance) paid £10 and got a coupon that could be used for food and drink at the hotel after visiting. There are other parking lots in the area, but all of them do have a fee.

Visiting Giant’s Causeway

On the path I eventually came to the first viewing of the Giants Causeway rocks on the side of the mountain. The tallest of these is about 39 feet high. I continued on the path up towards these orange rocks to see if there was anything around the bend worth viewing. There’s a really cool needle made out of the basalt rocks. But unfortunately because of the danger of falling rocks the path was closed. Then it was down the path to walk along the stones. Most the columns are hexagons, but some have as many as 8 or 9 sides.

Then down on the rocks, it was incredible – the waves crashing, the tide coming in, the layers of rocks. Extraordinary! There are three different major sections of rocks and I took my time exploring them- I just loved it so much. The rock formations developed between 50 to 60 million years ago from lava coming out of fissures in the earth. When the molten lava cooled, it contracted and cracked into the formations you see today. Do not miss Giant’s Causeway!

Other quick stops on Northern Ireland’s Coastal Causeway

There are so many things to see while driving Northern Ireland’s Coastal Causeway, and I could continue this blog for a lot longer. However, many of the places I saw after visiting Giant’s Causeway were quick stops. They include…

Dunluce Castle

Dunluce Castle is a very picturesque castle hugging the cliffside. The castle dates from the 16th century, though there is evidence that there was a settlement there from the first millenium. It was inhabited by both the McQuillan and MacDonnell clans, who were feuding. It is open from from 9:30 to 5 and costs £6 for adults or £4 for children ages 5-17.

White Rocks

Next was the with gorgeous sea views at White Rocks! I made a quick pullover to look out to the sea and cliffs.

Downhill Demesne and Mussenden Temple

Further along into Londonderry county I came to the Downhill Demesne and Mussenden Temple. Downhill Demesne, or domain, was built in the late 18th century for Lord Bishop of Derry. The home today it is just a shell of a building. Much of the home was destroyed in a fire in 1851, though it was later rebuilt. It fell into complete disrepair after World War II.

Further onto the property, and perched on the cliffs overlooking the beautiful Downhill Strand, is the Mussenden Temple. While carriages used to be able to drive around the temple, coastal erosion has taken its toll. Don’t worry though, the National Trust has done some cliff stabilization so that will never fall into the sea. This beautiful temple served as a library to the Bishop, who modeled it from the Temple of Vesta in Rome. Its walls were lined with books, and a fire was kept burning constantly so that the books never got damp.

While you cannot not currently go into the temple, you can walk the grounds, which has lots of paths. It is open from 10-5 and is free to visit (though parking is £5).

Gortmore Viewpoint

Next stop while driving the Coastal Causeway was Gortmore Viewpoint, famous for its panoramic views of Northern Ireland.

The views were incredible. There are tables if you want to have a picnic and also a fun sculpture of Manannan Mac Lir- the Celtic god of the sea.

Derry

My last stop while driving the Coastal Causeway in Northern Ireland was visiting the town of Derry. I first went to see some of the murals which demonstrate the troubles the city has faced since the occupation and eventual separation from Ireland in 1921. The murals are more than just art, they are an outlet for the people of Derry.

I didn’t have a lot of time, so decided to walk the walls of Derry. These walls, which encircle the city and take about an hour to walk around, were built between 1613-1619. Along the walls are signs which give the history of the city, and you get beautiful views. I particularly liked the the cannons on the wall, which have been preserved, and the Derry Guildhall.

There is so much to see driving Northern Ireland’s Coastal Causeway. This is just a fraction of what to see and do. I hope you enjoyed my blog, and that it helps you with a future visit to Northern Ireland. Have you driving the Coastal Causeway? Or visited Northern Ireland? What were your favorite things to see? I’d love to hear your comments and suggestions. Thanks, and catch you soon!

-Catching Katie