Two Days Exploring Marseille and Aix-en-Provence

Welcome back to my progression of blog posts about my epic ‘Tour de France’ roadtrip of summer ’25. If this is your first time to Catching Katie, I have a whole series of posts about this epic trip, starting in Dijon, followed by Annecy, Lyon and a bunch of adorable small towns in the French Riviera. We had just come from a few beautiful days in Antibes, plus a memorable day of art at the Fernand Léger Museum and Renoir’s home and studio. That last road trip day led us to where we are now in the series- two days exploring Marseille and Aix-en-Provence.

Visiting Marseille and Aix-en-Provence was a great mid-trip chapter: a mix of coastal history, Provençal charm, big-city vibes, and a quite a bit of art woven throughout. Even in that short window of only two days for exploring Marseille and Aix-en-Provence, we managed to squeeze in everything from walking tours, cathedral visits, lavender fields, museums, Cézanne, and a sound-and-light show. Keep reading to get all the details and for ideas for your own trip to Marseille and Aix-en-Provence.

History of Marseille

During our two days exploring the Marseille and Aix-en-Provence we were staying in a small town near both cities called Puyricard. Our first full day, we drove into Marseille and explored it via a walking tour around the city. But before I get to the information about that, let me tell you a bit about Marseille.

Did You Know? Marseille Edition

• Marseille is the oldest city in France. Founded around 600 BCE by Greek sailors from Phocaea, it’s been continuously inhabited for more than 2,600 years.
• It’s France’s biggest Mediterranean port. The Grand Port Maritime de Marseille is one of Europe’s largest commercial ports and has shaped the city’s identity for millennia.
• A whole neighborhood was destroyed in WWII. In 1943, the Nazis evacuated over 30,000 residents and demolished much of the Old Port’s medieval quarter- ruins uncovered decades later are now part of an archaeological museum.
• The basilica on the hill protects the city. Notre-Dame de la Garde, known as La Bonne Mère, sits atop a 500-foot hill, watching over sailors and locals. Inside, you’ll even find miniature boats hung as votive offerings.
• Marseille inspired a classic novel. The offshore Château d’If (visible from the city) became world-famous as the prison in Alexandre Dumas’s The Count of Monte Cristo.
• It’s home to Europe’s only land-and-sea national park. Calanques National Park features dramatic limestone cliffs, turquoise coves, and hiking trails right on Marseille’s doorstep.
• Marseille has its own famous soap. Savon de Marseille is a traditional olive-oil soap dating back to the 17th century. The soap (savon) must contain at least 72% olive oil to be considered authentic.
• Sunshine is almost guaranteed. With about 2,800 hours of sunshine per year, Marseille is one of the sunniest cities in France.

A walking tour of Marseille

The Vieux-Port

Our walking tour began where the city began too- at the Vieux-Port. Early morning at the Vieux-Port is a sensory rush. The sunlight reflecting off the water, and the people setting up for the market, selling fish and more. For over 2,600 years, this harbor has been Marseille’s center of life. It was the perfect place to start understanding this city.

The Archaeological Museum & Hidden Ruins

Our next stop was to see some of the oldest parts of Marseille. The archaeological museum in Marseille, the Musée d’Histoire de Marseille, sits right next to the Vieux-Port and is built alongside the Jardin des Vestiges. This open-air site is where major ancient ruins were uncovered. During construction in the 1960s, builders discovered remnants of the city’s Greek and Roman port. Stone quays, fortifications, and a Roman road were all hidden beneath what had long been a WWII-era parking lot (which you can see in the black and white photo below). Today, the museum showcases these excavations along with artifacts tracing Marseille’s history from its Greek founding in 600 BCE through Roman and medieval times.

The Musée d’Histoire de Marseille is located next to the Centre Bourse shopping center and is generally open daily except Mondays from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM (longer in summer). Tickets (which are free!!!) include access to the Jardin des Vestiges, and the museum has audio guides and bilingual signage to help visitors explore the ruins and artifacts.

A Parisian Touch: Marseille’s 19th-Century Haussmann-Style District

Walking onward, the city suddenly changed face. The narrow medieval lanes gave way to broad tree-lined boulevards framed by tall, elegant stone buildings. For a moment, it felt like we’d stepped into Paris.

In the 1800s, Marseille’s leaders wanted to modernize the city and make it more appealing to the upper class. So they introduced wide boulevards, Paris-style stone façades, tree-lined streets and elegant public squares. The idea was to bring a touch of Parisian refinement to a bustling port city known for its narrow, crowded streets. It worked to an extent: some of the new districts became desirable for wealthier residents, but the city’s historic neighborhoods, working-class population, and multicultural energy never disappeared.

Marseille’s WWII Destruction

We continued on our walking tour and the look of the city continued to evolve. In the next area, the grandeur and older looking buildings disappeared. This is because in January 1943, the German occupation authorities ordered the complete evacuation of Le Vieux-Port area. Le Vieux-Port and the surrounding medieval quarter, one of Marseille’s oldest and most densely populated neighborhoods, was home to more than 30,000 residents. The Nazis claimed the area was a hotbed for resistance activity and planned to demolish it for “security reasons.” Over a matter of days, the entire district was razed to the ground. The streets, homes, and businesses were completely destroyed. Families, mostly working-class families and immigrants were forced out, many losing all their possessions.

After the WWII destruction of Marseille’s Old Port district, the area was rebuilt in the late 1940s and 1950s with a much more uniform, orderly style compared to the medieval streets that once stood there. Instead of the tightly packed, winding alleys and small stone houses of the pre-war neighborhood, the rebuilt quarter features broad streets, taller apartment blocks, and a layout that reflects mid-20th-century urban planning. In the photo, you can see exactly what that reconstruction looks like today. The buildings have a simple, pale stone façade with long rows of shuttered windows. It’s all neat, repetitive, and symmetrical.

Remarkably, a few historic buildings survived the devastation, including La Maison Diamantée, a 16th-century merchant’s house with its distinctive diamond-patterned façade. Standing beside so much loss, it now feels like a rare architectural survivor from Marseille’s past, offering a glimpse of the Old Port district as it once was.

Hôtel-Dieu

We then walked by the Hôtel-Dieu, another survivor of the Nazi demolition. Originally founded in the 12th century, the Hôtel-Dieu served as one of Marseille’s main hospitals for centuries. It was rebuilt and expanded multiple times, especially in the 18th century, and became an iconic symbol of the city’s charitable and medical history. The grand, neoclassical façade you see today dates largely from the 1700s, carrying a stately elegance that overlooks the Vieux-Port. After the hospital closed in the 20th century, the building underwent a massive restoration and reopened in 2013 as the InterContinental Marseille – Hôtel-Dieu, one of the city’s most luxurious hotels.

Le Panier

The tour then led us into Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest neighborhood. It is also the most colorful area with lots of character. This hillside district has a patched-together charm: narrow streets, pastel shutters, steep staircases, little squares, and murals in every direction.

Over centuries, Le Panier has welcomed waves of newcomers (😉)- Italians, Spaniards, Armenians, Comorians- each leaving their cultural imprint. Today, Le Panier is full of restaurants reflecting the diversity, artisan shops, cafés, and artists’ studios. We wandered past La Vieille Charité, the 17th-century almshouse with its perfect Baroque courtyard. I couldn’t get enough of the colorful alleyways that felt like an open-air art gallery. We also also lots of small workshops selling handmade ceramics and the olive-oil soap that Marseille is known for.

It’s impossible not to fall for this neighborhood’s offbeat charm.

Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure

Our next stop was the unforgettable Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure, often called La Major. With its green-and-white striped stone and striking Byzantine-Romanesque architecture, the cathedral stands proudly between the port and the old city.

Built in the 19th century, La Major symbolized Marseille’s importance as a global port. Our tour guide gave us some time to wander inside and explore, and I’m so glad he did. Inside, the cool stone, intricate mosaics, and soaring domes create a quiet sanctuary from the outside bustle.

The Citadel & MuCEM

As we exited Le Panier, our guide walked us along the coast to Fort Saint-Jean, Marseille’s citadel built by Louis XIV in the 17th century. This fortress and the Fort Saint-Nicolas which is opposite it, once guarded the entrance to the port. They controlled maritime traffic and protected Marseille from both foreign enemies and internal rebellions. Today, Fort Saint-Jean is part of the MuCEM complex. The MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations) is a modern museum dedicated to the history, culture, and shared heritage of Mediterranean societies. Opened in 2013, it’s known for its cube-shaped building which is wrapped in a lace-like concrete lattice. It connects to Fort Saint-Jean by footbridge, creating one of the city’s most iconic architectural sights with the blending of medieval stone walls with contemporary architecture.

We ended the tour at this beautiful overlook, with the harbor stretched out below and in the background the basilica, which seems to watch over the city from its hilltop.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde

Once the walking tour ended, we made our way to the city’s most famous landmark- Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. As you can see from the picture, the basilica was undergoing some renovation while we were visiting. We were able to reach the basilica by car, but you can also take a bus, tourist train or walk.

Sitting atop a 500-foot limestone hill, the basilica watches over Marseille like a protector. Called la Bonne Mère (the Good Mother), sailors have prayed to her for centuries. The interior was not accessible when we visited, but the view from the top is nothing short of extraordinary. You can see the Vieux-Port glimmering below and orange-roofed buildings stretching inland. Looking towards the water you can see the Frioul Islands offshore and the rugged Calanques mountains framing the horizon.

Marseille left us with a deep appreciation for how many centuries can coexist in one place. Standing at the Old Port, it was easy to imagine ancient traders arriving here. It was a great day of wandering, discovering, and soaking in a city that feels both raw and full of life. By late afternoon, it was time to head out and pick up our buddy Adam, who had just flown in from the States to join us for the next part of our adventure.

Day 2: Aix-en-Provence

About Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is a charming city in southeastern France, about 30 minutes north of Marseille, nestled at the foot of the Montagne Sainte-Victoire. Surrounded by rolling hills, vineyards, and lavender fields, Aix has long been a center of culture, art, and refinement. It offers a quieter contrast to the bustling port city of nearby Marseille.

Did You Know? Aix-en-Provence Edition

• Aix was founded by the Romans. Created in 122 BCE as Aquae Sextiae, the city was built around natural thermal springs, some of which still flow today.
• It’s known as “the city of a thousand fountains.” You’ll spot fountains everywhere: big ones, tiny ones, moss-covered ones, and elegant Baroque masterpieces lining the Old Town.
• Paul Cézanne spent most of his life here. Aix is the hometown of the Post-Impressionist painter, and the surrounding landscape, especially Mont Sainte-Victoire, appears in dozens of his works.
• The cathedral is a blend of 1,300 years of architecture. Saint-Sauveur Cathedral mixes Roman, Gothic, and Baroque elements, built and rebuilt between the 5th and 18th centuries.
• Cours Mirabeau is one of France’s most beautiful boulevards. Lined with plane trees and 17th-century mansions, this grand avenue has been the social heart of Aix for centuries.
• The lavender fields are closer than you think. Some of Provence’s most photogenic lavender farms lie just 30–45 minutes outside the city.
• Aix has a long tradition of pastry making. The city is famous for calissons, an almond-shaped sweet made from candied melon, ground almonds, and royal icing.
• It’s a university town with deep cultural roots. Aix’s university was founded in 1409, making it one of France’s oldest.

Lavender Fields

Provence is known for lavender, so it is only fitting that the next morning, before heading back to Aix-en-Provence, we visited Terre Ugo, a family-run lavender farm. Even though the season was edging past its peak, the landscape was still spellbinding: rows of plants stretching toward distant hills, and bees drifting lazily through the air. At Terre Ugo, visitors are welcome to walk through rows of vibrant blooms, snap endless photos, and browse a small selection of locally made products, from essential oils to lavender sachets.

Guided tours are offered in both French and English, giving insight into the cultivation process and the history of lavender in Provence. Admission is around €8–10 per adult, with discounts for children and families. Visitors can enjoy picnics in designated areas, and watch demonstrations of lavender harvesting and essential oil distillation. The farm is generally open daily during the summer months, with mornings and late afternoons being ideal for photos and fewer crowds.

Hôtel de Caumont

Next we headed into Aix, and our stop was the Hôtel de Caumont Art Centre. This 18th-century aristocratic mansion turned museum is a stunning building. With its pale stone façade, wrought-iron balconies, and elegant courtyard café, it is truly a beautiful cultural space in Aix.

We visited to catch a special exhibition dedicated to Niki de Saint Phalle. Niki is a French-American artist known for her bold colors, playful forms, and unapologetically feminist voice. Right from the courtyard there was a sculpture based on her ‘nanas’ series, which was large and bold and even turns every quarter hour.

Niki de Saint Phalle

Born in 1930, Niki de Saint Phalle became famous in the 1960s for her “Tirs” (“shooting paintings”), where she fired rifles at bags of paint encased in plaster, creating explosive bursts of color. She later became internationally known for her joyful, curving sculptures called “Nanas”. These large, brightly colored female figures celebrate body positivity, freedom, and imagination. The temporary exhibition at Hôtel de Caumont displayed a wide range of Niki de Saint Phalle’s paintings, sculptures, and mixed-media pieces. I loved how many are vibrant, joyful or even humorous, that they often has a serious theme. Go through the slideshow to see some of her work.

I didn’t know much about Niki de Saint Phalle before visiting the Hôtel de Caumont, but I loved her work. It felt equal parts playful and profound, and the mix of all that with the elegant rooms of the Caumont mansion was just wonderful.

Visitor Information: Hôtel de Caumont Art Centre

The museum is located in the heart of Aix-en-Provence, just a short walk from the Cours Mirabeau. It’s open daily, typically from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM (longer hours in summer). Entry to special exhibitions (which when you visit will probably not be Niki de Saint Phalle) costs around €14–16, with reduced rates available for students and young visitors. In addition to the galleries, the museum has a beautifully restored 18th-century garden, a quiet café and a bookstore. Tickets can be purchased onsite or online.

Walking Tour Through Aix

What better way to experience a city than with a walking tour, am I right? So for our second day in a row we turned to a local guide and depended on him to tell us all about the city. Our tour began by the Fontaine de la Rotonde, a striking 19th-century fountain that is a city landmark. Rising three tiers high, it features graceful sculptures of lions, swans, and angels, symbolizing Justice, Agriculture, and the Fine Arts. Each figure on top faces a meaningful direction. Justice looks toward the city, Agriculture toward the surrounding countryside, and Fine Arts toward Aix’s cultural heart.

Cours Mirabeau

Next, we walked along the famous Cours Mirabeau, one of the most beautiful boulevards in France. Shaded by centuries-old plane trees and lined with 17th- and 18th-century mansions, it has long been the social center of the city.

From there, we wove through the Old Town. That’s when we really started to notice all the fountains in Aix. Strolling through Aix, you’ll encounter so many, which is why the town has the nickname “ville de mille fontaines” (city of a thousand fountains). Each fountain that we saw had its own charm. There are the grand monuments like the Fontaine de la Rotonde, but also mossy, small, tucked-away springs where locals pause to fill bottles or enjoy the soothing water. Check out photos of some of the beautiful fountains we saw during our walk through the town.

And let’s talk about the water- Aix-en-Provence has been celebrated for its thermal springs since Roman times, earning the city another nickname- “Aquae Sextiae.” Today, these mineral-rich waters still bubble up throughout the city, feeding not only its famous fountains but also a long-standing tradition of wellness. We heard often that this is the best water in France, and they just may be right. And speaking of Aquae Sextius, during our walking tour we walked right over the Thermes Sextius ruins. These are the remains of ancient Roman baths built around the 1st century BCE.

Aix-en-Provence and Cézanne

You can’t talk about Aix-en-Provence without mentioning post-impressionist artist Paul Cézanne. Cézanne and Aix are inseparable- both in life and legacy. Born here in 1839, Cézanne spent most of his life in Aix, and the city became his greatest inspiration. Today, you can literally follow in his footsteps thanks to the bronze “C” tiles embedded in the sidewalks, which guide visitors along a walking route to key places tied to his life. These include his statue near the Fontaine de la Rotonde, the Collège Bourbon (his old school, where he studied alongside the writer and his close friend Émile Zola). We also walked by Église de la Madeleine, where his family attended services.

Cézanne drew immense inspiration from the Provençal landscape. especially Mont Sainte-Victoire, which he painted more than 80 times and is visible from Aix. If you’re not familiar with him, Cézanne shaped modern art: his experimental brushwork and approach to form laid the groundwork for Cubism. Today, the city still honors him, and visitors can go to the preserved Atelier de Cézanne. Unfortunately, because when we visited the town was celebrating the anniversary of this death, the studio was booked and we weren’t able to visit. But it gives me something to look forward to next time.

Musée Granet

Musée Granet is a historic 17th-century priory just off the Cours Mirabeau. The museum features a permanent collection of European paintings, sculpture, and antiquities, spanning from the 14th century through modern art. Visitors can explore works by Old Masters, French Impressionists, and artists connected to Aix. Right next to Musée Granet stands the Église Saint-Jean-de-Malte, a striking Gothic church dating back to the 13th century.

In 2025, Musée Granet hosted a special exhibition marking the lead-up to the 120th anniversary of Paul Cézanne’s death. This made it even more meaningful to see his work in his hometown and we knew we needed to get tickets. So the morning we were leaving town we did just that. And it was just incredible. The galleries were arranged chronologically. International loans from institutions such as the Musée d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou, the National Gallery of Art in Washington, and the Tate brought key works from around the world back to Aix. One of the most striking things in the museum were the large murals from his family home at the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan. The murals were carefully removed and restored. It was really impressive seeing these works made by a young Cézanne experimenting with composition and color

Cézanne at Musée Granet

At Musée Granet, besides the murals from Cézanne’s family home, you can see several of his most famous and representative works, especially from his mature periods. Highlights include:

• Mont Sainte-Victoire series: Several studies and paintings of the mountain that Cézanne returned to again and again, showing his evolution in composition, color, and brushwork.
• Octo-Verso painting: A rare work depicting some of his family members, showing how Cézanne experimented on both sides of the canvas to refine composition, color, and form.
• Self portraits
• Still lifes: Iconic arrangements of apples, oranges, and household objects which Cézanne became especially known for.
• Portraits: The exhibit included a rich selection of Cézanne’s portraits, including family members, friends, and notable local figures. Highlights include portraits of his wife, literary icon Émile Zola, and other Aix residents, each reflecting his keen attention to structure, character, and expression.
• The “Card Players” series
• Landscapes of Provence

The museum’s collection was especially great at showing his development from realism to his late, almost abstract style. This allowed visitors to follow the progression of his revolutionary approach to form, color, and perspective. Click through the slideshow to see some of my favorite paintings.

Musée Granet visitor information

Musée Granet is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM, and is closed on Mondays. Adult tickets typically cost €8–10 for the permanent collection, with temporary exhibitions or special shows such as the Cézanne anniversary priced around €12–15. Reduced tickets are available for students and youth, and admission is free for children under 18 and sometimes on the first Sunday of the month. For major exhibitions, especially those celebrating Cézanne, advance tickets are strongly recommended.

Vieil Aix

Vieil Aix, or Old Town, is the historic heart of Aix-en-Provence. It is full of narrow, winding streets, hidden courtyards, and pastel-colored facades that date back centuries. Walking through this area feels like stepping back in time, with wrought-iron balconies, ornate doorways, and small squares tucked between the charming lanes. Walking around it we stumbled upon quaint cafés, artisan shops, and local markets. We enjoyed seeing landmarks such as Place des Quatre Dauphins and Place d’Albertas, each with elegant fountains, as well as the beautiful doors and all the charm of the area.

Saint-Sauveur Cathedral

Sitting at the edge of the Vieil Aix is Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur. The cathedral is a fascinating blend of architectural styles, built over nearly 1,000 years on a site that once housed a Roman forum and possibly an earlier temple. Because construction spanned from the 5th to the 17th century, the cathedral layers Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements in a way that feels like walking through a timeline of European architecture.

Inside, one of the highlights is the 13th-century Gothic cloister, a peaceful courtyard framed by carved capitals. The cathedral also houses the famous Triptych of the Burning Bush by Nicolas Froment (completed in 1476). Visitors often pause to admire the Romanesque nave, the Gothic choir, and the impressive baptistery, which dates to the 6th century and still contains ancient Roman columns.

A sound-and-light-show in Saint-Saveur

We actually had visited Saint-Sauveur Cathedral the evening before. The cathedral hosts an atmospheric sound-and-light show many evenings that highlights the building’s layered architecture, from the Romanesque nave to the Gothic choir. Soft projections illuminate the arches, columns, and chapels while music and a small choir singing fills the space. Colors danced across the stone vaults, music filled the nave, and centuries-old pillars pulsed with projected patterns.

One of the most powerful moments comes when the 18th-century pipe organ joins the performance. Its deep, resonant tones rolling through the stone vaults and enhancing the immersive experience. During the sound-and-light show, the historical narration is given in French, but the visuals and music make it easy to follow the story even without full language fluency. The combination of lighting, narration, and organ music makes the cathedral feel alive with centuries of history. The whole experience created a rare chance to appreciate the cathedral’s details in a new way. It was ethereal, part art installation, part spiritual moment, and I loved every moment.

Eating in Aix

The food scene in Aix-en-Provence is one of the city’s biggest pleasures, a mix of Provençal tradition, fresh market ingredients, and relaxed café culture. We enjoyed eating at several restaurants and bistros specializing in Provençal classics like ratatouille, pastas and seafood. Additionally, the daily and weekly markets overflow with sun-ripened produce, local cheeses, olives, tapenades, lavender honey, and fragrant herbs that define the region’s cooking. We visited the market and bought lots of produce and treats to have a picnic lunch.

Aix-en-Provence is also full of delicious stops for anyone with a sweet tooth. Madeleines de Christophe (or La Maison des Madeleines) is a must-visit for their fresh, buttery madeleines. They have flavors ranging from classic vanilla and lemon to chocolate and pistachio. Just a short walk away, the Chocolaterie de Puyricard offers exquisite artisan chocolate and truffles, all handmade in small batches and beautifully packaged- perfect for gifts or a decadent (or in our case- a big melty) treat.

This area is especially known for Calissons- a classic confection from Provence, and Aix-en-Provence is their traditional home. Calissons are diamond-shaped candies made from a smooth paste of ground almonds and candied melon, topped with a thin layer of royal icing. They are soft but slightly chewy, with a delicate sweetness balanced by the nutty almond flavor. They have been made in Aix for centuries, often associated with holidays, weddings, and other special occasions. I enjoyed them, and even have made some at home recently, though they weren’t as good as the ones I had while in Aix.

Bastille Day in Aix

We happened to be in Aix-en-Provence for Bastille Day on July 14. We stuck around to watch the firework display, and beforehand there was live music on temporary stages and in the squares. As evening fell, most people lined up along the Cours Mirabeau and gathered around Fontaine de la Rotonde. When the fireworks finally burst overhead, the display wasn’t as enormous as in big cities, but the setting- framed by plane trees, fountains, music, and a warm Provençal night- made it unforgettable.

Final Thoughts

It was a great two days exploring Marseille & Aix-en-Provence. From the bustling port streets and colorful neighborhoods of Marseille to the elegant fountains, historic streets, and artistic heritage of Aix-en-Provence, this trip was a true journey through the heart of Provence. We soaked in the maritime energy of Marseille, exploring the city on food and admiring the vibrant street art. We then slowed down in Aix to follow Cézanne’s footsteps, wander the Vieil Aix, and savor local specialties like calissons. Between historic cathedrals, lively squares, and unforgettable Bastille Day fireworks, both cities offered a perfect mix of culture, history, and local flavor. I can’t wait to go back and explore again. And I hope you make it there sometime too. Until next time!

-Catching Katie