Visiting Bucharest, Romania

In the summer of 2024 I traveled to Romania and Bulgaria with a couple of my friend. Both are countries that we’ve never been to, so there was a fair amount of mystery and intrigue involved. Perhaps the main reason we had for visiting Romania is that my friend Dan, who I met through traveling a dozen years ago, is originally from Romania. And what better way to experience a country than with a local as your tour guide, right?! Our first stop on our trip was Bucharest, the capital of Romania. It is a city with a rich history, unique culture, and an evolving modern identity. We stayed in the capital for 3 days and did a lot of exploring. I’m excited to share with you my experience and photos, as well as my tips and suggestions for visiting Bucharest, Romania.

Getting to know Bucharest

If you’re like I was before this trip, you may not know a lot about Bucharest. Here are some facts about Bucharest.

• Bucharest is located in the southeastern part of Romania, near the Danube River. It’s the largest city in the country, both in terms of population and area.
• The population of Bucharest is approximately 2 million people. This makes it the 6th largest city in the European Union by population! The metropolitan area is even larger, with over 2.5 million residents.
• The official language of Bucharest is Romanian, a Romance language. Romance languages have a special place in my heart, because French (what I teach) is a Romance language, as are Italian and Spanish. During my time in Romania, I found that I could understand some of the writing thanks to the relation with French. And fortunately, many people (especially younger generations) speak English. Plus, we had the added bonus of having Dan and our translator (and historian, entertainer, etc.).
• Romania is a member of the EU, having joined in 2007 along with Bulgaria (future blog post coming soon about Bulgaria). However, it is not part of the Eurozone and they use the Romania leu (RON) as their money. At the time of my writing this blog (November 2024), 1 US dollar is the equivalent to 4.7 RON. Romania is also not yet part of the Schengen Area, meaning you have to show your passport when you cross the border. Hopefully both of those things will be changing in the near future (which means I’ll have to update my blog!- Romania will keep me on my toes).
• The first recorded mention of Bucharest dates back to 1459, when it was referred to as a “small settlement.” Legend has it that the city was founded by Bucur, a shepherd whose name is said to be the origin of the city’s name. The city grew in importance after it became the capital of the Principality of Wallachia in 1659.
• Bucharest became the capital of Romania in 1862, after the unification of Wallachia and Moldavia.

Getting around Bucharest

Bucharest is well-connected by air, rail, and road. Henri Coandă International Airport (OTP) is the busiest airport in Romania, and is the airport that we flew in and out of for our trip. The city has an extensive public transportation network, including buses, trams, trolleybuses, and a subway system- the Bucharest Metro. The M2 Metro Line passes through many of the city’s key historic sites, making it a good way to explore if you’re visiting Bucharest, Romania on a budget. It was also easy to navigate.

We were able to take a tram from the airport to our Airbnb and we used it frequently. There were also lots of affordable Uber’s in the city. But mostly we got around by walking. Bucharest is a very walkable city. Like in most cities, take care of your belonging and watch for pickpockets- we had an unfortunate incident on the metro early into our trip. But otherwise we felt very safe while visiting Bucharest, as well as in the rest of Romania and Bulgaria.

Architecture in Bucharest

I’m a pretty big fan of architecture (meaning I love to admire it, not that I’m an expert by any means. One of my favorite things to visit and see are Frank Lloyd Wright homes, but I digress). Walking about Bucharest you will notice a huge hodgepodge of of architectural styles. There are an abundance of Neoclassical and Modernist style building. But my favorite where the Art Deco buildings, a popular style of architecture during the interwar periods.

Bucharest has a lot of buildings in need of repair and updating. However, it was still incredible to walk around, look up and admire these towering beauties. I liked to imagine what they must have been like during their heyday. Bucharest is also sometimes called the “Paris of the East” due to its grand tree-lined boulevards and elegant architecture. Even some of the street signs were modeled after the signs in Paris. One brewery we visited reminded me of the Paris metro (also Art Deco).

Arc de Triomphe

Speaking of French influence, Bucharest has an Arc de Triomphe modeled after the one in Paris. It’s just a little smaller at 89 feet tall. The Arc was was constructed in 1936 and is located at the northern end of Kiseleff Road, one of the major boulevards in the city. It was built to commemorate Romania’s soldiers who fought and died in World War I, particularly in the battles of 1916. Additionally, it is adorned with sculptural elements and reliefs depicted scenes of Romania’s military history. It plays a key role in national events, such as Romania’s National Day (December 1st), when military parades are held.

What to see in Bucharest

Bucharest is a vibrant city with a mix of history, culture, and modern attractions. Here are some of the top things to see and do while you’re visiting Bucharest, Romania.

Palace of the Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului)

A trip to Bucharest, Romania would not be complete without visiting one of the largest buildings in the world, the Palace of the Parliament. Built during the regime of Nicolae Ceaușescu, it houses the Romanian Parliament and the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Visitors can take guided tours to explore its lavish interior and learn about Romania’s history and the building’s controversial construction.

Information about visiting the Parliament

The Palace of the Parliament is open for guided tours from Monday to Friday, 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM. It is typically closed on weekends and public holidays. Visitors must book a guided tour in advance, as the building cannot be explored independently. You also have to show your passport and pass through security in order to tour, as it is a working building. Tours, available in several languages, last between 45 minutes to 1.5 hours. The tour was excellent, taking visitors through the most impressive rooms, such as the Main Chamber, Senate Chamber, and Grand Hall. Flip through the slideshow below to check out some of my pictures of the Parliament.

A key highlight of visiting the Parliament is its massive size. It has over 1,100 rooms, including chambers, halls, and underground bunkers. The building showcases stunning neoclassical architecture, featuring marble, crystal chandeliers, and intricate wood carvings throughout. Exquisite frescoes and decorative elements adorn many areas of the Parliament. The Council of Europe Chamber, with its ornate design and impressive acoustics, is another must-see. A tour also includes access to the Parliamentary Library and other significant rooms, offering an insight into Romania’s political history and the building’s controversial construction during the Communist era. The Palace is a testament to Romania’s architectural ambition and remains a key symbol of the nation’s modern identity.

Old Town (Lipscani District)

Bucharest’s Old Town is a charming area filled with narrow, cobblestone streets, historic buildings, lively cafes, restaurants, and shops. Key highlights include the Stavropoleos Church and the National Bank of Romania. The area is also home to great sidewalk restaurants and some of the city’s best nightlife, with bars and clubs staying open late. We found ourselves in the area several times during our stay in Bucharest, and enjoyed some great meals here (more about food later).

Cărturești Carusel

Located in the Lipscani District, Cărturești Carusel is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Housed in a restored 19th-century building, it has multiple levels filled with books, art, and a café where visitors can relax. Often called the “Carousel of Light,” it is open from 10-10 every day. I am a self-professed book nerd, and I loved it. There were books of every topic, and even books in other languages. I really recommend you this lovely book store while visiting Bucharest, Romania.

Romanian Athenaeum (Ateneul Român)

The Romanian Athenaeum is an example of beautiful neoclassical architecture and is one of Bucharest’s most beautiful buildings. This concert hall was built between 1886 and 1888, it serves as the home of the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra. It hosts a wide range of classical music performances, including the prestigious George Enescu Festival. The building is also known for its excellent acoustics. Also in the building- a stunning fresco depicting Romania’s history. Located on a central road, Calea Victoriei, it is one of Bucharest’s most important cultural landmarks and a must-visit for music lovers and history enthusiasts alike.

Churches of Bucharest

Bucharest is home to a rich array of historic and beautiful churches, many of which reflect the city’s deep-rooted religious and cultural heritage. The predominant faith in Romania is Eastern Orthodox Christianity. However, the churches are not just places of worship, but also important cultural and historical sites. And remember how I talked about the architecture of Bucharest? But not only can visitors explore the architecture but also admire the STUNNING frescoes. Flip through the pictures below to see some of the sights we saw just from wandering around the city.

Many churches in Bucharest have Byzantine-inspired features such as domes, arches, and frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible. Many of the churches hold regular religious services, and some also have small museums with religious art and historical exhibits. When visiting Bucharest, Romania it’s almost impossible to miss these beautiful and unique churches. I recommend stepping inside a few of them to see all the beauty up close. Here are some churches in Bucharest of note:

1. Saint Elefterie Church

Saint Elefterie Church is a historic Orthodox church located in the Vitan district of Bucharest. It was initially constructed in 1749 during the reign of Prince Constantin Mavrocordat and has undergone various renovations over the centuries. The church is dedicated to Saint Eleutherius, an early Christian bishop and martyr. It is renowned for its Brâncovenesc style architecture, a distinctive Romanian style blending Byzantine and Ottoman influences. This architecture style is characterized by its beautiful frescoes, intricate wood carvings, and ornate iconostasis {a wall of icons and religious paintings}. The church’s bell tower is another notable feature and I loved hearing it ring right after we visited. The church remains an active center for Orthodox worship, with regular services and special events.

2. Stavropoleos Monastery (Mănăstirea Stavropoleos)

3. Saint Spyridon Church

Saint Spyridon Church is located in the historical area of Vitan and near the important road of Calea Șerban Vodă. It was built from 1853-1860 and features a blend of neoclassical and Byzantine architectural styles. It is renowned for its rich frescoes and iconography. The church is an important place of worship and pilgrimage, housing relics of Saint Spyridon, believed to have healing powers.

4. Biserica Kretzulescu (Kretzulescu Church)

Herăstrău Park (King Mihai I Park)

From the interior of churches to the natural beauty of nature, Bucharest has several great parks, including the King Mihai I Park. This expansive park surrounding a lake is perfect for outdoor activities, relaxation, and picnics. We spent a nice (HOT) afternoon walking around the lake, seeking the shade. Visitors can also rent a boat, cycle along the trails, or dine at one of the restaurants found in the park.

Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum

Located next to the park is the Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum. When visiting Bucharest, Romania, this open-air museum is a must for anyone interested in Romanian folk culture. We enjoyed an early afternoon here and it was a wonderful way to see how the lifestyles range across Romania. The museum features traditional Romanian wooden houses, churches, mills and farms from various regions of Romania. The buildings are organized by county, and some feature actors who give information about the buildings. The museum really gives visitors a glimpse into rural life from centuries past.

Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday (9:00 AM – 5:00 PM) and closed on Mondays. Admission is typically around 20 RON for adults, with discounts for students, seniors, and children. The museum offers guided tours in Romanian and sometimes in English, and it’s advisable to book tours in advance during busy seasons. As the museum is primarily outdoors, visitors should wear comfortable shoes and consider the weather. It was HOOOOTTTT while we visited, so I was glad we got there early. The museum is partially accessible for those with disabilities, and facilities include parking, cafes with traditional snacks, and gift shops with handmade crafts. There are often special events and folk festivals, so check for programming for a more immersive experience.

National Museum of Art of Romania

Other museums in Bucharest

There are several museums in Bucharest that I didn’t have the opportunity to visit. The Romanian Peasant Museum provides a deep dive into Romania’s rural culture, showcasing traditional clothing, pottery, textiles, and tools. The museum is housed in a beautiful building and is an excellent place to understand Romania’s folklore and peasant traditions. The National History Museum of Romania is located in the former Post and Telegraph building. It explores Romania’s history from ancient times to the modern era. Key exhibits include artifacts from the Dacian civilization, the medieval period, and the more recent communist era. Hopefully the next time I’m visiting Bucharest, Romania, I will get to check them out!

And while we didn’t visit officially, we also saw the Dinopark located at the National Geology Museum. Imagine just walking down the street exploring and seeing dinosaurs in Bucharest! I was pretty excited about it.

Casa Ceaușescu

During the reign of Nicolae Ceaușescu (from 1965 to 1989), Romania was a communist state. During this time, Bucharest underwent significant transformations, including the demolition of historic neighborhoods. It also experienced the construction of monumental buildings, like the Palace of the Parliament. Ceaușescu’s regime was marked by heavy surveillance, censorship, and economic hardships for ordinary people. Casa Ceaușescu is the former home of the dictator and his wife, and it is open for visitors today.

Visiting the house was pretty incredible. The house is the definition of over-the-top opulence, with gilded everything, including the tiled pool house, and closets full of furs. It also showcases gifts from politicians around the world. Some claim it was also used as a headquarters for activities related to Ceausescu’s Securitate. This was the feared secret police force that conducted surveillance on the Romanian population and political enemies during the communist regime.

Visitors can take a guided tour of the house from Tuesday through Sunday 10-5. Tickets cost 240 RON and can be bought in advance from the website. After visiting the house grab a coffee in the cafe and see if you can see one of the peacocks that live on the grounds.

Revolution Square

Speaking of Ceaușescu, Revolution Square (Piața Revoluției) in Bucharest is one of the most historically significant locations in Romania. This is due to its association with the 1989 Romanian Revolution. The square was the site of key events that led to the fall of Nicolae Ceaușescu’s communist regime, marking a turning point in the country’s history.

December 1989, Ceaușescu and his wife, Elena, gave their infamous speech from the balcony of the Central Committee building, which is located on the northern side of the square. This speech marked the beginning of the protests that eventually led to Ceaușescu’s downfall and execution. Revolution Square was the focal point of mass demonstrations, and it played a key role in the overthrow of the Communist government.

When visiting Bucharest, Romania you’re sure to at least walk by this square. Several important landmarks surround the square. The most notable is the National Museum of Art of Romania, housed in the former Royal Palace, and the Kretzulescu Church, an important example of Romanian architecture. There is also an equestrian statue of Carol I, as well as the building housing the Central Library. The square is also home to the Revolution Memorial, which commemorates those who lost their lives during the violent clashes that took place here in December 1989.

Casa Radio

Another relic from the Nicolae Ceaușescu reign is Casa Radio. Construction for this huge project began in the early 1980s under the dictator, who envisioned it as a huge commercial and cultural center. The project was meant to include offices, shops, cultural spaces, and even residential apartments, reflecting the ambitious nature of Ceaușescu’s plans to modernize the capital. And it of course featured a big image of Ceaușescu in the center.

However, after the 1989 revolution and the fall of Ceaușescu’s regime, the construction was halted, and the building was left incomplete. As a result, Casa Radio has remained largely abandoned for several decades, with only part of it being finished. The half-completed structure stands as a symbol of the failed ambitions of the communist regime and has been left in a state of neglect and disrepair. At one point plans for it be repurposed began, causing the middle of the building to be destroyed, but that plan also fell through. It is an eerie site to see, but one worth visiting while in Bucharest, Romania.

It was really interesting to learn about the role that Communism played in Romania. It’s crazy to think that during my lifetime the country was in a completely different state than it is currently, and it’s still trying to recover. I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to meet with Dan’s family and hear about their experience, and just to meet them in general. All the people we met in Romania were just lovely. More about places to see while visiting Bucharest, Romania…

Cotroceni Palace (Palatul Cotroceni)

Bucharest’s Street Art and Murals

Buchares is known for its vibrant street art scene, with murals and graffiti popping up in various districts, especially in Thematic Street Art Zone around the Lizeanu and Vitan areas. A walk through these neighborhoods will give you a fresh, creative perspective on the city’s modern art scene.

Vampire mythology at Curtea Veche

Finally, you probably don’t go to Romania without some keen thoughts or ideas about Dracula. The legend is closely tied to Romania, and many tourists come to Bucharest to explore its connections to Vlad the Impaler (Vlad Țepeș), the historical figure who inspired the Dracula myth. Although Vlad didn’t live in Bucharest, the Princely Court (Curtea Veche) in the city was his residence during part of his reign. Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited.

Therme Bucharest

Dining in Bucharest

All that exploring has made me hungy! Let’s talk food! Bucharest’s food scene is a mix of traditional Romanian dishes and international influences. Popular local dishes include sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), mămăligă (cornmeal porridge), and mititei (grilled sausages). The city also has a growing number of fine dining restaurants, cafes, and bars, especially in areas like Lipscani and Herastrau. You may also want to visit Pasajul Victoriei, an alleyway in Old Town with colorful umbrellas hanging overhead.

Romanian cuisine, while traditionally meat-based, has a variety of delicious vegetarian dishes that highlight the country’s agricultural heritage. I quite enjoyed the vegetarian meals I had while in Bucharest. One of the most popular dishes is sarmale, or cabbage rolls, which are typically made with rice and vegetables instead of meat, and cooked in a tangy tomato sauce. Another staple is mămăligă, a hearty polenta dish often served with cheese, sour cream, or mushrooms. Ciorbă de legume, a vegetable soup made with seasonal produce, is a comforting favorite, while zacuscă, a roasted vegetable spread made from eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes, is often enjoyed on bread.

Almost every menu offered pickles and olives as a side dish which were just delicious. Cașcaval pane is a fried cheese dish that is super yummy. I also had several delicious salads and one of my favorite things was Papanasi, the quintessential Romanian dessert- a sweet cheese-filled dumpling. Topped with jam- it is just incredible.

Romanian Coffee

To have some “traditional” Romanian coffee Dan took us to Camera Din Fata. Here I was able to try Marghiloman Coffee. The name comes from Alexandru Marghiloman, a Romanian politician and former prime-minister who loved coffee. Legend has it that while out hunting with his friends, Marghiloman asked his butler for a cup of coffee. Out of water, the butler had to improvise and used cognac to make the coffee. This is how “marghiloman” coffee was born. Typically Romanian, this coffee is a mixture of Turkish and French influences, essentially Romania at the turn of the century. Turkish coffee is boiled with French cognac instead of water, or sometimes Jamaican rum can be used.

At Camera Din Fata the waiter brought my coffee to me and lit it on fire at the table. What a fun experience! And it’s a super cute café you should check out while visiting Bucharest, Romania.

Nightlife, adult sodas, and more

Bucharest is known for its vibrant nightlife, with a wide range of bars, pubs, and nightclubs. The Old Town (Lipscani District) is the center of nightlife activity, while Unirii Square and areas around Universitate also offer plenty of entertainment options. We also found a couple lovely breweries (my favorite was Hop Hooligans) and outdoor pubs. Besides having some good beers, including one called Bucur, we were roped into trying Țuică- Romania’s national drink, made from plums and distilled in copper kettles. It’s usually 40–55% alcohol by volume (ABV). Another drink is Palinca, a double-distilled fruit brandy with a higher ABV than Țuică. It comes in various fruit flavors, such as apricot, pear, and apple.

Conclusion

Bucharest is a city of contrasts, blending rich historical and cultural heritage with modern growth and innovation. It offers something for every type of traveler—whether you’re interested in history, architecture, food, or nightlife—making it an exciting destination in Eastern Europe. Do you have plans for visiting Bucharest, Romania? Have you been and have any suggestions for a future trip? I’d love to hear! Please leave me a comment below, and be on the lookout for a future blog about the rest of my trip through Romania and Bulgaria.

-Catching Katie