Visiting Isle Royale National Park

My friends Erin, Tricia and I have been going to US National Parks together for the past four years. It started with Hawaii Volcanos, and then expanded to Indiana Dunes, Rocky Mountain, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks. So when we were planning our summer 2024 National Park trip to Isle Royale NP in Michigan we decided to turn it into a road trip from Ohio. However, Isle Royale is the very northernmost part of Michigan and is only accessible by boat or by plane. So getting there took a little bit of planning. But now that I’ve been there once I feel like I could do the same trip again even easier! So here are some tips for visiting Isle Royale National Park as well as some stories from my trip.

**Note, I am not a backpacker so this blog post is probably more helpful for those who, like me, enjoy hiking during the day and staying in a lodge at night.**

About Isle Royale

Isle Royale National Park was established in 1940 and it is one of the least visited National Parks in the lower 48. But, it is also one of the most revisited National Parks, and after being there I can see why! The island is located on Lake Superior and it is the largest island on the lake at 45 miles long. It also encompasses about 400 smaller islands. In fact, more than 80% of the park is underwater. In 1980 it was designated as an International Biosphere Reserve. There are 165 miles of trails and 46 inland lakes, which are great for fishing.

Visitors might be interested in viewing wildlife on the island as there are moose (that swam across from Ontario several decades ago), beavers, otters, foxes, and wolves! Unfortunately, I didn’t see any of those during my time there. I did see a snake and a snowshoe hare. It is quite common for people to come across moose however, I just wasn’t one of the lucky ones.

The pricing for visiting Isle Royale National Park is a bit different than other parks. The cost is $7 per person per day, so if you plan on being there for a long time or multiple times throughout the year, a season pass costs $60 and may be a great idea. Otherwise, the park accepts the annual National Park Pass for up to four people. If you plan on visiting multiple National Parks the same year, the Annual Pass is definitely worth it!

Getting to Isle Royale

There are several options for accessing the island of Isle Royale, both from Michigan and Minnesota.

• From Houghton, Michigan to Isle Royale (Rock Harbor or Windigo)
  • Take the Ranger III ferry (6 hours to either side of the island)
  • Take an Isle Royale seaplane (40 minutes)
• From Copper Harbor, Michigan to Rock Harbor
  • Take the Queen IV ferry (3.5 hours)
• From Grand Portage, Minnesota to Windigo or Rock Harbor
  • Take the Voyageur II ferry (2 hours to its first stop at Windigo, and then another 8.5 hours to Rock Harbor)
  • Take the Sea Hunter III ferry (1.5 hours to Windigo)
• From Grand Marais, Minnesota to Windigo or Rock Harbor
  • Take an Isle Royale seaplane (30 minutes to Windigo; 45 minutes to Rock Harbor)

You can also take personal boats to Isle Royale. Not every ferry depart and returns every day, so make sure to look up their schedules. Additionally, prices vary depending on which transportation you choose.

**Note that once you’re in either Windigo or Rock Harbor, seaplanes, the Voyageur II and water taxis are the only things that allow for inter-island travel.**

Make sure to book your transport early, it books out fast! We met some people who were on a day trip to Isle Royale and didn’t realize how quickly it books up. They were put on a waiting list, however, and were lucky enough to go.

Isle Royale Queen ferry to Isle Royale

For visiting Isle Royale National Park, my friends and I opted to take the Isle Royale Queen ferry, which departs from Copper Harbor, Michigan. (We drove from Columbus to Copper Harbor which was a 12 hour drive. We broke it up into segments, visiting other lovely parts of Michigan, but more on that later.) The ferry departs at 8 AM daily and takes three hours, with return trips coming back at 2:40. Trips cost $160 round-trip for adults and $115 for children 15 and under. Passengers bringing canoes, kayaks or bikes pay an additional $60. Visitors can park cars in a lot nearby for an additional fee.

I was very impressed with the whole process- they have it down like a well oiled machine. When we arrived for our 8 AM ferry (45 minutes early like we were told) we were shown where to park and given tags to fill out for our luggage because we were staying at the lodge. We checked in, were given instructions for the ferry, grabbed a bite to eat at a local breakfast stand and boarded the ferry before 8 o’clock. In fact, the ferry was off minutes before eight because they take attendance and saw everyone was aboard.

Unfortunately, the water was very rocky the day that we went, and I get seasickness easily. However, the crewmembers were very good at checking in on people and making sure that they have what they needed (including barf bags for a few unfortunate people). At least that is what I was told- I kept my eyes closed the whole time and thanks to Dramamine had no major incident. There’s a pretty limited time for when Isle Royale is open to visitors. And the ferries have even shorter schedules than that, so make sure you plan before you leave. We spent three days on the island, it was a good amount of time.

Arriving at Isle Royale

When we arrived at on Isle Royale three hours later, park rangers split us into two groups: backpackers and those going to the lodge. As I’m sure you can imagine, it was pretty easy to pick out the people staying in the lodge from the backpackers based on luggage and outfits. The rangers gave a brief run down of the island with rules for our stay. This included what to do if you see wild animals. Overall, the introduction to the island made me feel at ease about what to expect from staying on the island.

We were not able to check into the lodge until 3pm so that meant we had from 11:30-3 to explore. One of the most convenient aspects of the ferry- luggage gets tagged and taken directly to the lodge rooms. So we decided to go on a hike (more on that later) and after our hike, we checked in and found our bags waiting for us. One of the day of departure visitors must leave their rooms by 10am. The ferry doesn’t take off until 2:35 but luggage is left in the rooms and is taken aboard the ferry by workers. Easy Peezy and much appreciated!

Rock Harbor & Windigo: the two areas on Isle Royale

There are two areas of Isle Royale: Windigo on the south end and Rock Harbor on the north end. Windigo has a visitor center, grocery and marina. Rock Harbor has the same but also a lodge, restaurants and cabins. The rest of the island is 210 mi.² of backcountry. Did you know that Isle Royale is also the only national park that closes in the winter? It is only open mid April through October and closes the rest of the year due to extreme weather. There are no dogs or wheeled vehicles allowed on the island, and plan on it raining or being humid and incredibly bug infested. But also plan on it being just incredible. Like with all National Parks, be sure to check out their website before traveling for any alerts.

Rock Harbor Lodge

There is one lodge on all of Isle Royale. Rock Harbor Lodge has 60 rooms that are pretty basic as far as hotel rooms go. However, they all have a view of the water. In addition to the Harbor Lodge there are also cottages nearby that have small kitchens, one double bed and one bunkbed. We really enjoyed our stay at the lodge, it was close to the restaurants, dock, visitors center and the sounds of the water at night were so relaxing. Isle Royale Lodge does not have a/c but it does not get so hot so we had no issues with that.

We also spent our evenings at the nearby common area, which was open until 9, where we were able to access the wifi (which you don’t have in other areas of the park) and sit out and enjoy the beautiful views. There were also games there, and it’s where rangers would give nightly talks.

Because Rock Harbor Lodge is the only lodge on Isle Royale, and it can only accommodate so many people, I recommend to book well in advance. We booked in October to ensure that we had a place to stay for our July trip. Again, if you want to do backpacking across Isle Royale, you can you just need a permit. You can also do a day trip to Isle Royale, which means that you would be taking the ferry leaving at 8 AM and arriving at Isle Royale three hours later. Then, you must board that ferry again at 2:35 to return to the mainland. 

Dining on Isle Royale

I read many things before the trip saying that staying at Rock Island Lodge included three meals a day and offered canoes with reservations, but when we visited that was not still occurring. Instead, there are two dining options on the Rock Harbor part of the island. Lighthouse Restaurant is open from 7 AM to 730 daily with breakfast being served until 5:30 PM. There is also Greenstone Grill which is also open from 7 AM to 730, and is just grab-and-go style. The Lighthouse Restaurant had several great menu options, including a few that were vegetarian and gluten-free! I recommend showing up at 5:30 to put your name on the list. Then staff will tell you when to come back for your meal. The seating was pretty well planned out and people were seated in increments to not overwhelm the mostly international student staff.

Windigo and campsites

On the Windigo side of the island there are two cabins available. On the whole of Isle Royale there are 36 campsites. It is possible to backpack from one campground to the next as they are usually about 6 to 8 miles away from each other. However, most of the sites have a maximum stay limit of 2 to 3 nights. It’s first come, first serve, and a (free) camping permit is required but is available at the islands’ visitor centers- you don’t need permits in advance. Backpackers just need to tell rangers where you plan on staying. And if your plans change, you just tell them after you’ve finished.

Copper Mining on Isle Royale

Did you know that Isle Royale was first opened in 1843 for copper exploration and mining? By 1847 there were more than a dozen established mining companies on the island. Commercial fishing also began to be popular on the island, and the use of a route through Lake Superior for shipping created a need for lighthouses. Copper mining remained one of the main activities on the island until 1885, and along several trails you can see remnants of tools and cabins.

What to do while on Isle Royale

Boating on Isle Royale

Wondering what there is to do on Isle Royale? When staying on Rock Harbor, visitors can go hiking, go a paid guided boat tour (which are offered every day except Sunday) or take a water taxi to other parts of the island. Unfortunately the water taxi are only one way trips and are quite expensive. Alternatively visitors can rent motorboat or canoes. A park ranger told us there are several things that one cannot bet on on Isle Royale- moose sightings, wind speed (which is inconvenient for cancelling boat rides), and seaplanes being able to arrive. Unfortunately, we had the issue with the wind and we were not able to rent boats the first two days that we were on the island. But then, the last day that we were on the island, the wind slowed down and we were able to rent a boat.

If you do rent a boat, or have a boat of your own on Isle Royale- there are several places to explore near Rock Harbor. Lookout Louise is accessible via a 20 minute canoe trip. You can also access Raspberry Island, Tobin Harbor or the Rock Harbor Lighthouse. 

Isle Royale Tours

Taking a tour is a great way to see Isle Royale areas that are not as easily accessible. There are also tours for some of the more popular trails which allow visitors to get more information about the island. Tours are available on the Rock Harbor side of the island through the lodge.  All the tours last about 4 hours or so and cost $38.75 per person.  You can’t reserve these in advance but you can sign up for them in person at the Rock Harbor Lodge once you’re in the park. Isle Royale tours include:

• Passage Island:  A visit to an island off the eastern point of Isle Royale containing a lighthouse.
• Louise Lookout:  This tour provides transportation to the Hidden Lake trailhead and a guided walk up to the lookout.
• Rock Harbor Lighthouse and Edisen Fishery: This visits the oldest lighthouse in Isle Royale National Park plus an old commercial fishery at a point on the island not accessible by hiking trail.
• Raspberry Island Sunset Cruise:  Hike around a small forested island that sits across from Rock Harbor and then take a sunset cruise around the eastern tip of Isle Royale.

Be sure to check out the Lodge’s tour schedule before your trip. The schedule changes and we were not able to take any tours as they weren’t available when we were on the island. (We arrived on a Saturday afternoon when the tours had already left, had a full Sunday on the island when there are no tours, and left on Monday afternoon when there are evening tours).

Renting a boat on Isle Royale

Visitors of Isle Royale can rent a boat for a full day or a half day. It was quite windy our first two days on the island so there were no rentals allowed. Our last morning, the day we were returning, we were able to rent a boat for a half day. The boating manager asked if we had experience boating (I do), we were given a demonstration on how to run the small motor and shown on a map where we could go. And then, for $23 for a half day (or $40 for the full day) plus the price of gas we were able to venture out on Lake Superior. We had a great time boating on the very serene (and not very occupied) waters to the Rock Harbor Lighthouse.

Rock Harbor Lighthouse

Rock Harbor Lighthouse was completed in 1855. The lighthouse features a 50-foot white round brick tower with a black lantern. The tower is attached to a keeper’s house that now serves as a museum. In 1859, as copper mining declined, the Rock Harbor Light was shut down. The light was rekindled in 1874 when copper mining resurged but then was permanently closed in 1879. However, the lighthouse remains a popular stop for visitors. We were the only people in the lighthouse when we visited. It was really interesting to see it and learn history of the island in the museum. There are information displays about the types of boats that have been used on Lake Superior as well as some shipwrecks. I found it very interesting to learn that boating on a lake is more dangerous than boating on the sea.

Edisen Fishery

Located near the Rock Harbor Lighthouse is the Edisen Fishery. It is the most intact surviving example of a commercial fishery in continuous use in the park. It was a small family-based operation used from 1910-1975. We visited the fishery which is open to visitors 5 days a week. While it wasn’t open when we visited, the current people living there did open up some of the buildings just for us to wander around and see.

We also took the quarter mile hike to the Moose-eum where we saw the remains of moose that have died on the island. They are actually backpackers who take expeditions out to uncover the remains so that they can be studied. All the skeletons are then taken to a National Park archives museum. We had a lovely time talking to the man who lives there and runs the program.

Hiking Isle Royale from Rock Harbor

If you’re visiting Isle Royale National Park, I’m sure you are interested in some hiking. By the way- did you know it is pronounced ‘royal’ {Roy-L} and not ‘royale’ {Roy-AL}? As a French teacher, I was really disappointed in this, and I’m not sure I can switch my pronunciation. Anyways, back to hiking. From Rock Harbor, there are four hiking trails.

• Stoll Memorial Trail (1.8 mile loop)

If you’re only doing a day trip, the rangers recommend starting with the Stoll Memorial Trail. The loop goes along the coast line giving beautiful views of Lake Superior as well as the forest. That hike shares the beginning trail with another hike, Scoville Point.

• Scoville Point (4.2 mile loop)

This trail is a figure-eight loop and takes you to the very end of the island. It rewards hikers with amazing views and very serene peaceful moments.

On this hike there are several sections with narrow boards on the ground to help access wet areas. Also on this trail you can spot an eagles nest. We were lucky enough to see some eagles circling the area in the sky.

• Susie’s Cave (3.8 mile loop)

Susie’s Cave is an inland sea arch, which was formed by wave action about 4,000 years ago. You can access the cave via the Rock Harbor Trail, a scenic trail along the shoreline, or an easier Tobin Harbor Trail. Or hike it there one way and out another to make it a loop.

Isle Royale definitely has a lot of bugs- so make sure to bring bug spray, bug bracelets, even bug hat nets. But- there are no ticks on the island!

There are other hikes available from Rock Harbor, but visitors may want to rent a water taxi to access them easily, and then hike back.

Hiking Isle Royale: Mount Franklin

The beginning of the hike to Susie’s Cave will also lead you to Mount Franklin, which is a 10 mile round-trip hike. It is rated is as strenuous, but I didn’t find it too difficult. There are parts in the forest, including some sections walking on the wooden planks. There was also a section out in the sun and climbing over rocks. We also walked by a river in some plains where I was hoping to see some wildlife, but to no avail. The whole hike was incredibly beautiful.

The hike leads visitors to an overlook (Mount Franklin) where you can see all of the island. And on a clear day you may even see Canada! Make sure that you pack rain gear, food and water because it does take several hours to complete. However, Tricia and I very much enjoyed a picnic on the top of the mountain and it was one of my favorite parts of visiting Isle Royale National Park. 

It was a great hike, and we saw very few people during our hike (mostly backpackers heading to campsites). Even at the top we enjoyed our picnic for about 40 minutes in solitude. Being the least visited island definitely has its perks! During our picnic on Mount Franklin is where I watched my water bottle get caught in the wind and roll off the side, but I didn’t try to stop it for fear of rolling off myself. It was really wonderful going back after the hike and putting our feet in the water near the lodge and enjoying a cold drink- because as Tricia says “the last mile is the longest” and we were ready to relax after that trek! But it was worth it.

Relaxing on Isle Royale

And speaking of relaxing, one of the best things to do on Isle Royale is relax! There are lots of benches located near the water, and with so few people on the island there is a lot of peace and serenity. We enjoyed a few beautiful sunsets by the water.

What an incredible trip- one I hope you get to enjoy yourself.

Have you been to Isle Royale National Park? I’d love to hear your thoughts! And do you have a suggestion for an adventure? I’m also looking for places to explore. Thanks for reading- and catch you soon!

-Catching Katie