Visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s Chicago

Presidents Day weekend has become a little tradition for my friend Sheri and me. For the past five years, we’ve packed our bags in the middle of winter and set off together for a long weekend, trading Ohio’s gray February skies for somewhere new to explore. Gettysburg, Nashville, Buffalo, and Savannah have all been stops along the way, each trip filled with history, wandering, and plenty of fun. Along the way, we kept stumbling across places connected to Frank Lloyd Wright. There’s even a FLW house in Springfield, Ohio! So we eventually set our sights on visiting a destination with a large concentration of his work. With Chicago only about a 5½-hour drive away, it was the perfect choice. And so we found ourselves visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s Chicago for our latest Presidents Day adventure.

Unity Temple (Oak Park)

We began at Unity Temple, and it was the perfect start to visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s genius in Chicago. Built between 1905 and 1908 for the Unitarian Universalist congregation after their previous church burned down, the building was revolutionary for its time. Wright chose poured reinforced concrete for the building. It was an unusual, even controversial material for a sacred space. But he choose it largely because it was affordable and fireproof. The result is one of the first truly modern buildings in the world! In fact, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Additionally, it is the last prairie style public building designed by Wright in existence.

Unity Temple Sanctuary

From the outside, Unity Temple looks almost fortress‑like: solid, geometric, and surprisingly plain. But stepping inside is a completely different experience. To access the sanctuary, visitors go through a classic Frank Lloyd Wright (FLW) compression and release passage. But then entering the sanctuary, you’re in a cube of light. With clerestory windows (windows above eye-level) and amber‑tinted skylights the sunlight is diffused into a warm golden glow. Balconies wrap the room on three levels. This design was intended to bring the congregation physically closer together and emphasize the Unitarian belief in community rather than hierarchy. There are no pews far in the back, it is truly an amazing detail in the space. The sanctuary is just breathtaking. Every detail- from the beautiful light fixtures to the seating to the sightlines- was designed as a unified whole. It feels peaceful, intimate, and astonishingly modern for a building more than a century old.

Other spaces inside Unity Temple

Beyond the sanctuary, the main gathering space in Unity Temple offers a completely different atmosphere. Wright envisioned this side of the complex as a true community center, and the large hall reflects that purpose. Natural light filters in from high windows and from the gorgeous art glass skylights, illuminating the simple geometric details in the wood and warm color tones. And of course he included a fireplace. Wright believed the fireplace was the heart of the home. In many of his Prairie homes, he designed the house to radiate outward from the hearth. The idea was that warmth (physical and emotional) began there. In this space, as in classic Wright designs, the room’s restrained decoration allows the architecture itself to shine. We basically had the place to ourselves while we visited and it was a incredible experience.

Visitor Info

• Address: 875 Lake Street, Oak Park, IL 60301
• Hours: Tours M-F 9 am – 2:15 pm, Sat 9 am – 11:15 am. The building closes at 3 M-F and noon on Saturday.
• Tour types: Self-guided audio tours, and guided tours are both available. There are no tours on Sunday as it is a working church. Book online in advance or in person.
• Cost: $18 for self-guided audio tours, $20 for guided tours, $40 for in-depth tours.

Charnley‑Persky House (Gold Coast)

After visiting Unity Temple, we headed into Chicago to see another of Frank Lloyd Wright’s designs. The Charnley-Persky house was designed in 1891 while Wright was still working in Louis Sullivan’s office. Sullivan is often called the “father of modernism,” and this house represents a pivotal transition away from Victorian excess toward simpler, more geometric forms.

Just look at how this home differs from the Victorian homes that are located near the Charnley-Persky house and were popular at the time:

Inside the Charnley-Persky House

We were lucky to visit inside, as they offer one guided tour of the home each Friday and Saturday (and free tours on Wednesday). Several features inside the home reveal just how forward-thinking the design was. The central staircase is as much a work of art as it is functional. The wood ties seamlessly to the trim and other built-in features. Above, a large skylight floods the interior with natural light, creating a bright, calm space at the center of the home. This technique Wright would refine in many later projects (and you saw it at the Unity Temple above). And again, the fireplace anchors the main living area, emphasizing Wright’s belief that the hearth should serve as the emotional and functional heart of family life.

The house is now preserved and managed as a historic site and educational center, with occasional special events. While it wasn’t my favorite Frank Lloyd Wright tour (the bedrooms, now converted into offices, felt very underwhelming) it was still fascinating to experience one of his earliest works in person. Many details clearly foreshadowed the elements that would define his later designs, particularly the vertical wood slats at the top of the staircase, which hint at his growing interest in structure, light, and geometric rhythm.

Visitor Info

• Address: 1365 N. Astor St. in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood
• Tour hours: Wednesday, Friday & Saturday at noon.
• Cost: Wednesday tours are free, Friday & Saturday $15 adults, $10 seniors & students. Book in advance online.

Frederick C. Robie House (Hyde Park)

It wouldn’t be visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s Chicago without visiting the Robie House in Hyde Park. The Robie House is widely considered the ultimate expression of Wright’s Prairie School philosophy, and seeing it in person was absolutely breathtaking. Completed in 1910 for Frederick Robie, a bicycle manufacturer, it was designed to maximize natural light, privacy, and connection to the landscape. We could recognize Wright’s work from down the street as we approached it- the long horizontal lines, dramatic overhanging eaves, and cantilevered roofs.

Inside the Robie House

To visit the inside of the house, a tour is required. And it was well worth it- inside, the house is stunning and easily one of my favorites from what I’ve seen. The open floor plan connects living and dining spaces around a massive central hearth, with built‑in furniture and art‑glass windows that filter light in patterns across the rooms.

The windows themselves are incredible, with geometric designs that not only provide privacy but also create shifting light effects throughout the day.

The woodwork in the house is nothing short of stunning. Rich, warm-toned oak trim, paneling, and built-in furnishings run continuously throughout the main living spaces, emphasizing long horizontal lines that draw the eye from one end of the house to the other. Wright designed these elements as part of a unified whole, so walls, furniture, shelving, and even lighting feel seamlessly integrated. Wright was very particular and meticulous about every detail in the house, from the patterns on the carpet, to the furniture to the built-in wardrobes.

In true FLW fashion, every corner of the house offers a view of the outdoors, blurring the line between inside and out. I loved the sense of discovery in each room, it’s a home that feels both intimate and expansive, serene and dramatic.

The exterior of the Robie house

The exterior of the home is just as impressive as the interior. Wright’s use of long Roman bricks enhances the horizontal lines of the Robie House. In addition, the angular ends of the house give the building a powerful, dynamic presence, resembling the prow of a ship cutting through the landscape. It is definitely one of my favorite FLW homes I’ve visited. Today, the Robie House is preserved as a museum and educational site operated by the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust.

Visitor Info

• Location: 5757 S. Woodlawn Avenue, Chicago, IL 60637
• Hours: Thursday – Monday tours from 10 am – 3 pm. The shop is open from 9:30 am – 4 pm.
• Tours & cost: Guided Interior Tour + Self-Guided Outdoor Audio Tour, 1hr45, $38. Guided interior tour, 1 hr, $24. In-depth tour, 90min, $75. Recommended to purchase tickets online in advance.

Walking the University of Chicago neighborhood

Along with touring the Robie House itself, we opted for the neighborhood audio walking tour. As we circled the house and explored the surrounding University of Chicago campus, the narration pointed out nearby landmarks like the university’s towering Gothic buildings, the Harper Memorial Library, the quiet quadrangle, and the broad stretch of the Midway Plaisance.

Cattycorner from the Robie House is the Rockefeller Memorial Chapel, a massive gothic revival chapel built AFTER the Robie House in 1928, even though it looks like it has stood there for centuries. We walked by just in time for the bells to play a song, which you can see and hear in the video.

All of these buildings were pointed out on the tour as a contrast to Wright’s modern Prairie style. However, across the street from the Robie House stands the striking glass-and-steel Charles M. Harper Center, home to the University of Chicago Booth School of Business. Its dramatic cantilevered rooflines intentionally echo Wright’s design, creating a really fascinating architectural contrast between past and present.

ISAC

We also walked by the Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures (ISAC) and saw a sign for a free tour. Who could pass that up? And this turned out to be a hidden gem. Suddenly we were face‑to‑face with artifacts from ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia and more. Not something we planned, but one of those delightful travel surprises that I definitely recommend visiting.

Griffin Museum of Science and Industry

We wrapped up the afternoon by walking over to the Griffin Museum of Science and Industry, which I have been wanting to see since reading The Devil in The White City and learning about the 1893 World’s Fair. Even without going inside (because it was closing, I’ll have to save that for another trip), the massive neoclassical building was worth the detour.

By evening, we were back in Oak Park- tired yet completely happy and ready for our next full day immersed in Wright’s home turf.

Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio (Oak Park)

Sunday was devoted to Oak Park, a suburb of Chicago and absolutely necessary for visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s designs. This was also the area where we were staying, and because of the nice weather we never needed to use the car. The first stop was the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio. Wright lived here with his family from 1889 to 1909, and the studio is where he designed many of his early masterpieces. The home began as a modest shingle-style house, but Wright continually remodeled it, experimenting with space, light, and form as his ideas evolved.

Inside the Frank Lloyd Wright home and studio

Like most other FLW homes, a tour is required to see inside the home. But what a treat! Inside the home, every detail felt intentional and thoughtfully designed. Built-in furniture, custom wood trim, and elegant light fixtures create cohesion and warmth. Starting in the with the foyer and living room, with the ever-important fireplace, a focal point to FLW designs. .

On the tour we learned some cool insider information. Like the dining room where Wright sealed off some of the windows after neighbors built a house next to him. Wright reportedly couldn’t stand the sight of the Queen Anne style home. Also the children’s room upstairs, a wall had to be added because that was the space for the 6 children! However, you can see in the pictures it did not go all the way up to the vaulted ceiling, and it is said the children used to throw things across the wall to each other. Finally, Wright designed his house addition around a tree! He cut a hole in the wall and it continued to grow in the house. However, eventually that tree did die, and there is a branch in the hall to show where it was

My favorite parts of the FLW home

Some of my favorite moments inside the Frank Lloyd Wright Home were in the more personal family spaces. Here his creativity feels especially warm. The main bedroom features a beautiful mural and stunning light fixtures. They give the room a soft, almost storybook glow. Even more striking was the rounded playroom, a space Wright designed for his children that feels completely different from the rest of the house. With its vaulted ceiling, colorful mural, and abundant natural light, the room feels almost like stepping into a secret hideaway. Especially with the compress and release hallway that leads you into the room. A grand piano built directly into the wall reminds visitors that Wright always wanted to blend architecture and function, even at extreme lengths! (Notice the back of the piano sticking out of the stairway).

FLW drafting room

When Wright’s family grew, it meant less room for his work space. So an addition was adding, and this included the oval draft room. The draft room is striking from the outside, with strong horizontal lines and banded windows that let in abundant light while keeping the interior private. Sculpted storks are on the columns by the entrance, and a statue of a folded up man flanks both side of the doorway. Next to the doorway, a small plaque bears Wright’s name, announcing the building as both a home and a professional atelier. These thoughtful details blur the line between home and studio, reminding visitors that for Wright, life and work were never truly separate.

The draft room served as the bustling center of Wright’s architectural practice. Here, Wright and a team of assistants and apprentices worked side by side to produce the drawings that shaped his groundbreaking Prairie School designs. The space was carefully arranged for productivity. It has ample natural light from the high ceilings, large drafting tables, and an open layout that encouraged collaboration and the exchange of ideas. Visitors can also see Wrights desk and some original blueprints.

The presentation room continues the theme of purposeful and warm wooden design. It’s a beautiful space and many of Wright’s most influential early projects began here. In 1909, however, Wright began his affair with Mamah Borthwick and abruptly left for Europe. The studio fell quiet, and the drafting room was repurposed as living space for his wife children and household and the home was rented out to earn money. Can you even imagine?!? From that point on, Wright’s life became a lot more dramatic- I recommend the book Loving Frank if you want to learn more about it.

Visitor Info (Home & Studio)

• Location: 951 Chicago Avenue, Oak Park, IL 60302
• Hours: Tours from 10 am – 4 pm daily, but 10 am – 3 pm daily in January and February
• Tours & Prices: Guided home tour (one hour), $24. Inside and Out tour, includes the guided tour of the home and self-guided audio tour of the area, $38. Advance purchase recommended.

Oak Park Audio Tour

During his time in Oak Park, Wright began taking on more residential commissions in the surrounding area, experimenting with low-pitched roofs, horizontal lines, and open floor plans. This period laid the groundwork for the iconic Robie House and many other homes nearby. With so many of his early works in one neighborhood, it made perfect sense to take a walking audio tour of the area near the Frank Lloyd Wright home and studio, which especially focused on the street of Forest Ave. The slideshow gives you a glimpse of the houses.

One of my favorite houses (seen from the outside only, of course as these are all private residences) was the Nathan G. Moore House. Probably because it’s so intriguing and feels so unlike him. Built in 1895 in the Tudor Revival style at the insistence of its owner, the home is covered in elaborate ornamentation. Intricate half-timbering, carved wood details, patterned brickwork, decorative chimneys, and sculptural terra cotta wrap around the exterior. It feels worlds away from Wright’s emerging Prairie style. After a fire in 1922, Wright rebuilt the house, keeping its Tudor framework but refining the details and proportions and weaving in more of his own architectural voice. The result is a beautiful compromise between rich decoration and Wright’s evolving design style.

Seeking out more FLW homes in Oak Park & River Forest

After our audio tour, we returned the audio devices and as we were leaving the FLW home and studio I spotted a map that showed all of Wright’s homes in the area. Thanks to the great weather, we spent hours wandering the residential streets, discovering Wright’s homes in their natural setting. Wright lived and worked in Oak Park from 1889 to 1909, and this community became a laboratory for his early ideas. It now contains roughly 25–30 of his designs. When combined with neighboring River Forest, the number climbs to over 60 buildings, most of them private homes tucked along quiet residential streets. So armed with our map we sought out as many as we could. They were easy to spot with their horizontal lines, art-glass windows, overhanging eaves. Go through the slideshow to see the highlights.

It was so fun walking around finding these homes! What a great way to really experience Frank Lloyd Wright’s Chicago that I highly recommend.

The Thomas House

One of the most memorable moments of our trip while visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s Chicago was a private tour of the Thomas House, arranged through a personal connection. Sheri and I have often wondered what it must feel like to live in a Frank Lloyd Wright home, and this gave us the rare chance to experience it firsthand. Inside, the typical built-in furniture, cozy reading nooks, and artfully framed windows were lovely. We could see how every element- from the entry hallway of art glass to the placement of the hearth- was designed with both beauty and function in mind.

Experiencing the house as a lived-in space offered a glimpse into Wright’s vision for comfortable, livable homes that are as elegant as they are practical. The lovely couple who welcomed us has done a beautiful job preserving Wright’s vision and aesthetic while creating a warm and comfortable home of their own.

The Rookery (Financial District)

Before heading home on Monday, we made a stop in downtown Chicago to visit The Rookery, originally completed in 1888 by Burnham and Root and later remodeled by Wright in 1905. Wright’s renovation of the lobby transformed the space into a masterpiece of light and design. The stunning central light court floods the interior with natural light, highlighting white marble floors, gold accents, and intricate ironwork.

The spiral staircase in The Rookery’s light court is one of the most striking features of the space. Designed as part of Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1905 renovation, the graceful curve rises like a ribbon through the bright atrium. Its fluid form softens the strong lines of the surrounding architecture and draws the eye upward toward the skylight above.

Every detail, from the delicate staircase to the ornamented railings, reflects Wright’s ability to blend elegance with structure. Even just standing in the lobby, it’s clear why The Rookery is considered one of Chicago’s architectural gems.

Burnham Library

As part of our tour, not only were we able to climb the spiral staircase (which is off limits unless on a paid tour), we also got to go upstairs to the Burnham Library. The Burnham Library sits on the second floor of The Rookery and was originally created as a private library for Daniel Burnham, the famed architect and urban planner. Burnham was a central figure in Chicago’s development and, most famously, he played a huge role in organizing the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893, the “White City,” which was a turning point for Chicago architecture. As I mentioned earlier, I was really excited about seeing this after having read The Devil in the white City. Burnham was the director of the Plan of Chicago (1909), which laid out the city’s future growth. This library was a hub for Burnham’s research, planning, and design work. It was great seeing the small space and thinking of all that happened in that room.

Visitor Info (The Rookery)

• Location: 209 S. LaSalle Street, Chicago, IL 60604 (Chicago’s financial district)
• Hours: The building’s first-floor Light Court lobby is open to the public Monday- Friday from 7am – 6pm and Saturday from 8am – 2pm. It is not open Sunday.
• Tours: Guided tours last 45 minutes, $15. Tours of the Rookery plus Burnham library available Monday and Wednesday, one hours, $20. Book in advance online is recommended.

Closing thoughts

By the end of our Presidents Day weekend, visiting Frank Lloyd Wright’s Chicago felt like more than a tour- it was a journey through his architectural vision. I loved walking Oak Park’s streets, exploring his home and studio, Unity Temple, and seeing so many of his beautifully designed houses. In Hyde Park, the Robie House was a highlight, and downtown’s Rookery offered even more architectural treasures. Seeing these spaces in person reminded me how much thought, creativity, and care went into every line, window, and detail. The blend of history, design, and sharing it all with a friend made the trip unforgettable. Whether you’re a longtime Wright fan or simply love beautiful spaces, Chicago offers a rare chance to step inside the world of one of America’s greatest architects and watch his ideas come alive. I hope you can experience it someday, and enjoyed coming along with me in this post.

-Catching Katie