After the adventure-filled days in Vang Vieng, visiting the capital of Laos, Vientiane, brought us somewhere completely different. Vientiane, the capital of Laos, may be the country’s largest city, but it feels more like a relaxed riverside town than a bustling city, especially after starting our Southeast Asian trip in Hanoi. It doesn’t have endless attractions competing for attention, and that’s exactly what makes it enjoyable. We spent less than two days wandering temples, learning about an important part of Laos’ history, watching the sun set over the city, and discovering one of the quirkiest sculpture parks I’ve ever visited. More than anything, Vientiane felt cute, quirky, and just a little bit whimsical—and I’m so glad we didn’t skip it.
Learning About Laos’ Hidden History at the COPE visitor center
Our journey began when we took a train from Vang Vieng to Vientiane and arrived in the late morning. After checking into our hotel, we headed out on foot to explore. We walked to our first stop, the COPE Visitor Center. It ended up being one of the most meaningful experiences of our trip.
COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) is a small museum dedicated to explaining the impact of unexploded bombs in Laos and the work being done to help those affected. During the Vietnam War, millions of cluster bombs were dropped on Laos, leaving behind unexploded ordnance that still injures and kills people decades later. The museum explains this history in a thoughtful, accessible way while highlighting the incredible work COPE does by providing prosthetic limbs, wheelchairs, and rehabilitation services to survivors.
Laos has the unfortunate distinction of being the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. Between 1964 and 1973, more than 270 million cluster submunitions, often called “bombies,” were dropped on the country, and an estimated 30% failed to explode. Decades later, these unexploded bombs remain a danger to communities, particularly in rural areas, where people can encounter them while farming or carrying out everyday activities. The museum shares the personal stories of so many people.
It’s not a cheerful museum, but it’s an important one. We left with a much deeper understanding of modern Laos and an appreciation for the resilience of its people.
Wat Hosantinimit
After the COPE center and after a delicious vegetarian lunch we headed towards the city center. Along the way we stumbled upon one of the most intricate quirky temples I’ve ever seen- Wat Hosantinimit. It was one of my top two favorite unexpected discoveries in Vientiane! We were walking down the street when we spotted an unassuming entrance. Beyond it, we could see gilded buildings, so naturally, we had to explore. And then, once inside, the temple complex opened up into a beautiful, peacefully crazy collection of ornate buildings and sculptures.
The temple has a long history, with origins dating back centuries, although much of what you see today has been rebuilt and renovated over the years. The main temple is particularly beautiful, with elaborate details and a striking golden roof.
Even more than the architecture, though, I loved the feeling of the place. It was quiet, there were very few tourists, and it felt like we had wandered somewhere we weren’t necessarily supposed to find. It was so quirky and whimsical that I was gleefully giggling around every turn.
And that’s what I loved about Vientiane. We hadn’t set out to find Wat Hosantinimit—we simply happened upon it while walking. One minute we were wandering along the streets of the capital, and the next we were walking through a peaceful temple complex with almost no one around. It was another little reminder that some of the best travel experiences are the ones you don’t plan.
Patuxai: Vientiane’s Victory Gate
One of Vientiane’s most recognizable landmarks is Patuxai, which literally means ‘Victory Gate‘. At first glance, it’s hard not to think of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, which might be why I loved it so much!
The massive concrete monument sits at the end of Lane Xang Avenue, Vientiane’s grand central boulevard. Its design was clearly inspired by the famous Parisian arch. But look a little closer and you’ll see that Patuxai is distinctly Lao. Instead of French military reliefs, the monument is covered with Buddhist and Hindu imagery, including mythical creatures, kinnari (half-woman, half-bird figures), and elaborate Lao-style decorations. The five towers rising above the arch also give it the appearance of a traditional Lao temple.
The story behind its construction is almost as interesting as the monument itself. Patuxai was built between 1957 and 1968.It was built as a memorial to Lao soldiers who died during World War II and the country’s struggle for independence from France. And then there’s the slightly bizarre American connection: the United States had provided money and cement intended to help Laos build an airport, but some of those resources were instead used for the monument. That earned Patuxai the tongue-in-cheek nickname “the vertical runway”.
We happened to visit in the late afternoon, which turned out to be perfect. As the sun began to drop, the light warmed the enormous arch and its surrounding park, and the whole place took on a completely different feel. Rather than just being an imposing monument in the middle of the city, it became one of those places where we could slow down and enjoy watching Vientiane wind down for the evening. Honestly, seeing Patuxai glowing in the setting sun was much more memorable than I expected.
French influence in Vientiane
While Patuxai is the most obvious example of French-inspired architecture, visiting the capital of Laos also gives you plenty of chances to see French influence throughout Vientiane. Laos was part of French Indochina from 1893 until 1953, and the French introduced architectural styles that were adapted to the local climate and blended with traditional Lao design. Walking around the town and around the riverside, you can find colonial-era buildings with red-tiled roofs, shutters, and European-style facades. I saw Le petit prince, TinTin and more! And I loved how these details added another layer to Vientiane’s personality.
Between the temples, French influence, lively markets, and quirky attractions, the city felt like a charming mix of cultures and eras.
Markets, the Mekong, and an Evening Above the City
As evening approached, we wandered toward the Mekong River. On the way we passed through a large outdoor market near one of the shopping centers. There was a dance troupe performing, so we decided to stop and wander around the stalls to see what was being offered. Eventually we decided to get some ice cream (mine with mango of course) and watch the performance for a few minutes.
We walked to the night market, which stretched on forever! We’d been enjoying night markets all over Southeast Asia, and while this one went on forever, it was also selling some of the most generic items we’d seen. However, families strolled along the waterfront as the vendors sold everything from souvenirs to snacks, and the atmosphere felt festive.
Next to the water there was even a fair set up, adding music, lights, and even more energy to the promenade.
To finish the evening, we headed to a nearby rooftop bar overlooking the city. Watching the lights come on across Vientiane while enjoying one last Beerlao was the perfect way to end our day in the capital.
Buddha Park: A Whimsical World of Giant Sculptures
The next morning we hired a driver to take us to Buddha Park, located about 30 minutes outside the city. Arriving early turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. We had much of the park to ourselves, allowing us to wander among the giant sculptures before the tour buses arrived.
Calling it a sculpture park almost doesn’t do it justice. It felt like stepping into a whimsical storybook filled with enormous statues of Buddhas, Hindu gods, demons, mythical creatures, and fantastical figures peeking out from every direction. Around every corner there was something unexpected.
One of the highlights is the massive pumpkin-shaped structure that visitors can climb through. You enter through the mouth of a demon and make your way up narrow staircases representing hell, earth, and heaven before emerging at the top for a panoramic view over the entire park. Looking out across the sea of sculptures from above made the whole place feel even more surreal.
Buddha Park was unlike anywhere else we visited in Southeast Asia and ended up being one of my favorite stops in Laos.
Final Thoughts
Before visiting the capital of Laos, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’d heard enough people say Vientiane wasn’t worth visiting that I almost wondered if we’d made the wrong choice. Compared with the temples and history of Luang Prabang or the dramatic scenery and adventure of Vang Vieng, people often described Vientiane as a place you could easily skip. So, I’ll admit, my expectations were pretty low. But maybe that made it even easier to be completely charmed by it, and I was! Vientiane felt quirky, cute, and wonderfully laid-back. It wasn’t a city where we felt like we had to rush from one famous attraction to the next. Instead, we found ourselves wandering down streets, stumbling upon beautiful temples, watching the sunset at Patuxai, exploring markets along the Mekong, and discovering unexpected little corners of the city. There was something almost whimsical about it all.
From learning about Laos’ difficult past to wandering peaceful temples, enjoying a riverside sunset, and exploring one of the country’s most unusual attractions, our final days in Laos were filled with quiet moments and unexpected discoveries. Sometimes a capital city doesn’t need to dazzle you with nonstop attractions. Sometimes it’s enough for it to simply leave you with good memories—and Vientiane certainly did that.
Thanks for catching Katie in Vientiane! I hope you’ll stick around as our Southeast Asia adventure continues into Thailand. There are plenty more adventures, delicious food, and unexpected discoveries still to come!
-Catching Katie
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