This summer I’m finally getting to do trip that is always my answer of where my dream destination is. My bucket list trip. Also consequently my Covid trip (glad I can put that behind me now). I headed to Southeast Asia! So happy that my friend Erin wanted to visit again, and check off some things on her list that she hadn’t seen before. Let’s begin with the city we flew into and the first area we explored- Hanoi! Read on to find out how I spent my time exploring Hanoi, Vietnam.
La Belle Maison
Our first full day we set off ready to explore- the city has temples, differing architecture, history and a city full of life. We stayed at the most adorable hotel in the Old Quarter- La Belle Maison. And I can’t recommend this hotel more! They were so accommodating and helpful. They helped us book tickets, held our luggage while we explored Lon Ha Bay and more! I’ve never felt more taken care of at a hotel. It was a great location, we were able to walk everywhere, the room was beautiful, complete with balcony, and it was right above a Circle K, which is pretty convenient. And we started the day with a great breakfast with a view!
Exploring the Old Quarter of Hanoi
After breakfast we explored on foot- one of the best decisions we made. The city’s major sights are surprisingly close together, but the real attraction was everything in between. Hanoi is a city of contrasts. Ancient temples stand beside modern shops, peaceful lakes sit just steps from chaotic traffic, and history is woven into everyday modern life. It’s a city that is both chaotic and charming and one that is best experienced on foot, especially since I wasn’t going to attempt driving around myself!
At first, even crossing the road in Hanoi felt impossible. Motorbikes seem to come from every direction at once, flowing through the streets like water. My first time out of the hotel I stepped into a pedestrian crosswalk thinking that it gave me priority only to almost get plowed over. The trick, we quickly learned, was to step out confidently and keep moving. After a few days, dodging motorbikes became part of the adventure, and by the end of our stay we were weaving through traffic like seasoned locals- or at least that’s how it felt.
Another thing about the motorbikes. They not only are all over the road, but they hog the sidewalks too. They are literally all over so pedestrians often have to walk on the road because there’s no where else to go!
Green Hanoi
What surprised me most about Hanoi was how green it is. Before arriving, I expected a busy, crowded city, but I hadn’t anticipated the number of trees, plants, and peaceful pockets of nature. The streets are lined with different types of trees and it feels so lush even though it’s kinda chaotic everywhere. It’s just a surprising and lovely combination.
Hoan Kiem Lake
After leaving the hotel we headed across the street to the sight we could see from our breakfast- Hoan Koem Lake. The tree-lined paths, the reflections on the water, and the sight of locals exercising, chatting, and enjoying the morning air creates a calm oasis in the middle of the city. In the middle of the lake is a little temple called the Turtle Temple.
The highlight of the lake was Ngoc Son Temple, sitting gracefully on its small island and connected by the famous red bridge. It feels like the perfect symbol of Hanoi- historic, beautiful, and somehow completely integrated into the modern life surrounding it.
There is a small fee to enter, and visitors must dress appropriately according to the temple’s rules, with shoulders and knees covered. Inside, we wandered through the temple, noticing offerings of fruit, flowers, and other gifts left by worshippers. These offerings, along with the burning incense, are acts of respect and prayer, honoring ancestors, seeking blessings, and expressing gratitude. The gentle scent of incense drifting through the temple added to the peaceful atmosphere and offered a glimpse into the spiritual traditions that remain an important part of daily life in Vietnam.
Hoa Lo Prison
Next we walked to Hoa Lo Prison, formerly called Maison Centrale, which was a very different experience from the peaceful temples and bustling streets we had just visited earlier. Walking through the prison’s exhibits was sobering and thought-provoking, offering a glimpse into some of the harsher chapters of Vietnam’s history.
Built by the French in the late 19th century, the prison was originally used to hold Vietnamese revolutionaries and political prisoners who opposed colonial rule. The exhibits showed cramped cells, shackles, and other artifacts that illustrated the harsh conditions endured by many inmates. Seeing the narrow prison cells and reading personal accounts helped bring that history to life in a powerful way.
The museum then shifts to the prison’s later role during the Vietnam War, known in Vietnam as the American War, when it housed captured American pilots. This section includes photographs, artifacts, and accounts from both Vietnamese and American perspectives. We chose to use the audio guide during our entire visit (which was a small fee), which added valuable context throughout the visit. In addition to explaining the history and exhibits, it included firsthand testimonies from people connected to the prison, making the experience feel much more personal. It was one of those places that leaves you reflecting long after you’ve left. I was also struck by how differently the telling of historical events can be experienced and remembered depending on who is telling the story.
The Temple of Literature
Next we walked to the Temple of Literature. It offered a contrast to the energy of the Old Quarter, though it was still bustling with people. The Temple of Literature, which was founded in 1070 and later became Vietnam’s first national university. For centuries, it served as a place where the country’s brightest scholars studied and prepared for the rigorous imperial examinations. Walking through the peaceful courtyards, it was easy to imagine students wandering these same grounds hundreds of years ago, hoping to earn a place in the royal government.
One of the most picturesque spots was the pavilion overlooking the courtyard, with its distinctive red wooden structure reflected in the nearby pond. The courtyards, ancient trees, and beautifully maintained gardens created a sense of calm.
As we continued through the complex, we passed through a series of courtyards, gates, and temple buildings dedicated to some of the most important figures in Vietnamese history and learning. The main sanctuary honors Confucius, whose teachings shaped the educational system that once existed here. Nearby are shrines dedicated to his most distinguished disciples, as well as respected Vietnamese scholars who helped advance education throughout the country.
A memorable feature is the collection of stone turtle statues. At first glance, they look like decorative sculptures, but each turtle supports a large stone stele engraved with the names of scholars who passed the imperial examinations. The turtle is a symbol of wisdom and longevity in Vietnamese culture. There are 82 surviving stelae, honoring more than a thousand successful scholars from examinations held between the 15th and 18th centuries. These remarkable monuments are so historically significant that they have been recognized by UNESCO’s Memory of the World program.
The complex also honors two emperors of the Ly Dynasty who played key roles in its history. Emperor Ly Thanh Tong founded the Temple of Literature in 1070 as a place to honor Confucius and promote learning. A few years later, his son, Emperor Ly Nhan Tong, established the Imperial Academy on the grounds, transforming the site into Vietnam’s first university. Together, the father-and-son rulers helped lay the foundation for a tradition of education that would influence Vietnamese society for centuries.
St Joseph’s Cathedral
St. Joseph’s Cathedral was our next stop. Standing in front of its grand Gothic façade, surrounded by cafés and buzzing streets, felt like discovering a little piece of Europe in the middle of Southeast Asia. The cathedral’s twin bell towers rise above the surrounding buildings, making it one of Hanoi’s most recognizable landmarks.
We found ourselves lingering in the square, watching locals and visitors gather, sitting at cafes sipping coffee, snapping photos, and simply soaking up the atmosphere. I loved the mix of architectural styles surrounding the cathedral. French colonial buildings stood alongside traditional Vietnamese shop houses, while modern businesses occupied structures that blended elements of both. The result is a streetscape that feels so unique to Hanoi. The mix of centuries of history and different cultural influences comes together in a way that feels wonderful.
After admiring the exterior, we stepped inside to take a closer look at the architecture. The soaring ceilings, stained-glass windows, and arched columns created a peaceful contrast to the busy streets outside. Built in the late 1800s the church reflects the changes to the city that occurred during the French colonial period.
Water Puppet Theatre
Something that was recommended to me by several people was watching a performance at the water puppet theatre, a uniquely Vietnamese art form that dates back nearly a thousand years. Originally created by farmers in the flooded rice paddies of northern Vietnam, the puppets appear to dance across the water while hidden puppeteers control them from behind a screen. Accompanied by live traditional music and singing, the show brought Vietnamese legends, village life, and folklore to life. The theatre was just a short walk from our hotel so it was an easy addition to our first evening.
Train Street
And then there was Train Street. I’d seen photos before visiting, but nothing really prepares you for standing beside the tracks as a train approaches. First, you have to get invited to a cafe, you can’t just wander the tracks without sitting for a drink or a meal. We sat at a cute spot and had to wait for a bit to see a train because we had just missed one. But one minute people are sipping coffee or beers and taking photos, the next everyone is moving tables back or pressing against the walls as the train moves past just inches away. It was exciting, surreal, and undeniably memorable. It made for a great first day in Hanoi.
More in Hanoi
The next three days we went on excursions that took us out of the city of Hanoi. More on that later. However, after our second excursion, we arrived back in Hanoi in the late afternoon. Wanting to make the most of our time before we departed that evening, we decided to take a little tour of the city. We went for a one-hour hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus tour as an easy way to see the rest of the city. We weren’t able to do any hopping off because most sites in Hanoi close at 5:30pm. Hanoi offers all kinds of guided tours, including popular jeep tours that weave through the city’s busy streets and hidden corners, but the bus was the perfect fit for us and our time frame. But staying on board the entire loop worked well for us, we were able to take in the sights from the open-air top deck as the city buzzed around us.
The tour began near Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake we had visited our first morning. As we rolled through the city, I was immediately struck by the mix of architectural styles. Hanoi’s French colonial past is still visible throughout the city, with elegant buildings, wrought-iron balconies, colorful shutters, and tree-lined boulevards appearing alongside traditional Vietnamese temples and modern development.
Along the route, we passed many of Hanoi’s most important historic sites. We passed by St. Joseph’s Cathedral before reaching the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, offering a glimpse into the city’s thousand-year history as the political heart of Vietnam. Nearby, the Hanoi Flag Tower stood proudly as one of the few historic structures to survive centuries of conflict and change. At its base sits the Vietnam Military History Museum, where displays of military artifacts and captured aircraft tell the story of Vietnam’s long struggle for independence and national defense.
We also drove past the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the surrounding government district, where stately yellow colonial-era buildings line the broad avenues around Ba Đình Square.
The tour also showcased some of Hanoi’s beautiful lakes and spiritual sites. In addition to Hoan Kiem Lake, we caught views of West Lake, the largest lake in the city, as well as neighboring Trúc Bạch Lake. The audioguide pointed out the area where John McCain parachuted into Trúc Bạch Lake after his aircraft was shot down during the Vietnam War. Having just visited Hoa Lo Prison and learned about his capture and years as a prisoner of war, it was cool to see the site and connect to the two.
Nearby sits Quan Thanh Temple, one of Hanoi’s oldest temples and one of the four sacred temples that once protected the ancient city. The peaceful lakes and historic temples provided a striking contrast to the bustling streets around them, blending natural beauty with layers of history stretching across centuries.
Toward the end of the route, we passed the elegant Hanoi Opera House, one of the city’s most beautiful examples of French colonial architecture. From our rooftop views, it was easy to see why Hanoi is often described as one of Southeast Asia’s most charming capitals- and I really agree! I was completely charmed by the city. Every turn seemed to reveal another fascinating blend of history, culture, and daily life.
Here are some more sites we saw from the bus, even if I’m not sure what they are, but you can enjoy the views of Hanoi just like we did.
Ice cream and beer (street)
After the tour, we headed to Trang Tien Ice Cream, a Hanoi institution that has been delighting locals since 1958. More than just an ice cream shop, it’s a beloved city landmark and a rite of passage for many visitors. Naturally, we couldn’t leave Hanoi without trying it for ourselves! Verdict- we enjoyed it, and it was fun to try some different flavors.
From there, we made our way to Hanoi’s famous Beer Street. While it’s one of the city’s most popular nightlife spots, it wasn’t quite our scene. The area was packed with tourists, and restaurant staff enthusiastically called out to passersby and thrust menus into our hands in hopes of attracting customers. After one beer, we decided to move on.
Hanoi Homebrew
Fortunately, just a short walk away from Beer Street we discovered Hanoi Homebrew, a local craft brewery that was much more our style. The atmosphere was relaxed, the beer was excellent, and I may have had the best cider of my life—an incredible apricot cider that was both refreshing and flavorful. It turned out to be one of our favorite finds in Hanoi.
What to eat and drink in Hanoi
Food was an important part of our time in Hanoi, and I wanted to make sure to try several local specialties. No visit to the city would feel complete without sampling Hanoi’s famous egg coffee. Invented in the city during the 1940s, the drink combines strong Vietnamese coffee with a whipped mixture of egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk. While many travelers rave about its rich, custard-like texture, it wasn’t quite my cup of tea 😉 Erin, however enjoyed her egg hot coca, and I’m glad I tried this uniquely Hanoian tradition for myself.
One thing that was impossible to miss in Hanoi was the city’s incredible street food culture. On nearly every corner, vendors tended grills piled high with skewers of sizzling meat and other local specialties. Tiny plastic stools spill onto the sidewalks as people gathered for quick meals and evening snacks. As a vegetarian, many of these dishes weren’t options for me, but I did find some great vegetarian options:
Katze Vegan
One restaurant that stood out was Katze Vegan & Vegetarian, where we enjoyed creative plant-based versions of Vietnamese dishes. The menu was amazing, and the chef/ owner kept bringing more and more food to us, often demonstrating for us how it should be eaten. He also had a great story about growing up with nothing, becoming an entrepreneur and giving back to his community. Make sure to check it out while in Hanoi.
Cinnamon Restaurant
For a more traditional experience, we visited Cinnamon Restaurant and chose their vegetarian prix fixe set menu. It was a wonderful way to sample a variety of Vietnamese dishes in one meal, with each course highlighting different flavors and lots of veggies. And of course we had spring rolls. We enjoyed LOTS of spring rolls while in Vietnam.
We enjoyed our last evening in Hanoi at Cinnamon, but before we could head back to the hotel, the skies opened up. A torrential downpour swept through the city, sending people scrambling for cover and turning the streets into a sea of umbrellas and ponchos. Our trip in June falls during Hanoi’s hot and humid rainy season, when sudden afternoon and evening thunderstorms are a regular occurrence. The storm was intense, but it also felt like an authentic Hanoi experience- and a memorable way to end our final night in the capital.
Final thoughts on Hanoi
As much as I enjoyed Hanoi’s famous landmarks, my favourite memories are the small moments between them: wandering down busy streets, watching locals gather around tiny plastic tables, and admiring the greenery that seems to soften even the busiest corners of the city. Hope you enjoyed reading about my time in Hanoi and have some ideas for your own trip to Hanoi. Stay tuned for more adventures in Vietnam and Southeast Asia!
-catching Katie
